ON THE BORDERS OF PIGMY- LAND

B. FISHER

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

ON THE BORDERS OF PIGMY LAND

ON THE BORPERS OF PIGMY LANP

BY

RUTH B. FISHER

(nee HURDITCH)

[SECOND EDITION]

LONDON MARSHALL BROTHERS

KESWICK HOUSE, PATERNOSTER ROW, EC

R. VI. SIMPSON AND CO., LTD..

PRINTERS RICHMOND AND LONDON.

PREFACE

TO none of her many friends in England and Ireland does the writer of this book, whether as Miss Ruth Hurditch or Mrs. Fisher, need any introduction ; but I gladly accept the opportunity offered to me of commending her graphic story of Mission life and work to a still wider circle, including the American Christian public, among whom we are assured the work will find ready circulation.

No one can read it and not be impressed by the evidence with which it abounds that the same Gospel which conquered Europe, civilized or barbarous, in ages past is as potent to-day to transform the most degraded and dormant races into peoples of quick intelligence and spiritual consciousness, and has given them in a marvellously short time a measure of self-respect, a sense of the dignity of labour, and a devotion to the welfare of others, not always found in Christian lands or even Churches of ancient fame. At a time when the jaded faith of many at home is giving way before the incessant undermining of the old foundations, and when we are invited to recast the " details " of the Gospel, it is no small thing that the Bible is seen to be making new history again, and giving fresh evidences of its divine vitality. The Mission Field is paying back its debt to the Church at home. Africa, emerging from the night of ages, is bringing her treasures of grace to make up the " fulness of the Gentiles." The pigmies themselves are worthy of a better lot than to be carried off by a traveller and be made a show for the sordid curiosity of holiday crowds.

1C49C21

Preface

There are other reasons also why we welcome Mrs. Fisher's journals. She has drawn with her pen pictures of the country and people as lifelike as the excellent photographs which adorn the book. She has enabled us to share her adventures without the discomforts. The tropical storms and glaring sunshine, the swamps of Semliki, and the snow peaks of Ruwenzori, the camps and caravans, the dispensary and the school, the good King and the gentle Queen, the Prime Minister and poor Blasiyo the pigmy are all as real to us as though we had seen them and known them ourselves.

Mrs. Fisher has shown us how a devoted couple whose hearts are filled with a longing to win souls for the Saviour can face dangers, and cut themselves off from the common comforts of home, not only with patience but with cheerfulness. No one will feel the playfulness and the sense of humour with which she often describes the most trying situations to be inconsistent with the more serious purpose of her Missionary life, or to unfit her for the gracious ministry of comforting the sorrowful, teaching the ignorant, and healing the sick, in which she has been engaged.

If each reader of these pages will let them raise before the conscience such questions as these, " What have / done, and what can I do to help such blessed work" or " Why should / not follow in such steps myself," and if such questions be honestly answered as in the presence of the Lord, I cannot doubt that results still more wonder- ful than those which this book describes will find a record in the near future, — that may be even the Coming of the Lord.

May the Holy Spirit moving in many lives bring this to pass.

H. E. FOX,

Hon. Sec., C.M.S.

VI

CONTENTS

CHAPTER. PACK.

I. A JOURNEY ON THE UGANDA RAILROAD FOUR

YEARS AGO i

II. ON LAND AND LAKE . . . .11

III. MENGO, UGANDA .... 22

IV. TORO, THE LAND OF THE MOUNTAINS OF THE

MOON . . . . -31

V. THE COUNTRY . . . . 41

VI. HOME LIFE . . . . -50

VII. ROYAL LIFE .... 59

VIII. THE WOMEN OF TORO . . .69

IX. CHILD LIFE .... 79

X. RELIGION . . . . .84

XL LANGUAGE .... 92

XII. FESTIVITIES IN TORO . . -97

XIII. TRAMP I. To THE ALBERT EDWARD LAKE . 106

XIV. TRAMP II. HOLIDAYS . . .119

XV. TRAMP III. TRAMP THROUGH THE FOUR

KINGDOMS OF THE PROTECTORATE . • 128

XVI. TRAMP IV. TOWARDS THE PIGMIES . 151 XVII. IN DARKEST AFRICA. THE PIGMIES (BATWA)

AND THEIR (BAMBUBA) NEIGHBOURS . l6l

XVIII. A CLIMB TO THE SNOWS . . 173

XIX. MISSIONARY WORK . . . • 188

XX. MEDICAL WORK . . 199

XXI. SCHOLASTIC WORK . 2"

vii

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

.*

A GROUP OF BAGANDA.

A GROUP OF MASAIS.

A GROUP OF PIGMY WOMEN.

A MUBIRA LADY: AN AFTERNOON CALLER.

A NANDI FAMILY.

A NATIVE OF BULEGA : THE FIRST TO BE BAPTISED OF HIS RACE.

A PEEP AT THE SNOWS.

APOLO KlVEBULAYA.

A SCHOOL IN TORO.

A VIADUCT ON THE UGANDA RAILROAD.

BACK FROM THE SNOWS : BAKONGO PORTERS.

BLASIYO : FIRST BAPTISED PIGMY.

CROSSING THE MULUKU RIVER.

KICUCEI CAMP.

KING DANDI KASAGAMA OF TORO AND HIS CHIEFS.

MULUKU GLACIER.

NEW CHURCH, KABAROLE TORO.

OUR HOME IN TORO.

PORT OF MOMBASA.

SNOW PEAKS.

STIFF CLIMBING : A CLIMB TO THE SNOWS.

TABALA, CHIEF OF MBOGO, AND SUITE.

THE ALBERT EDWARD LAKE.

THE BAAMBAS : NEAREST NEIGHBOURS TO THE PIGMIES.

THE BAHUKU : CANNIBAL RACE.

THE BAKONGA AT HOME.

THE BATORO AT HOME.

THE FOUR PIGMIES AT KABAROLE.

THE KIDONG ESCARPMENT.

THE MARKET PLACE.

THE NEW BOAT ON VICTORIA NYANZA.

THE SEWLIKA RIVER.

ix

CHAPTER I

A Journey on the Uganda Railroad Four Years Ago

IT was in the beginning of the year 1900 that a British India steamer cast anchor and set down on African soil a party of seven missionaries bound for distant Uganda. Six of that number might be termed " freshers," for they were complete strangers to the "dark continent," and absolutely uninitiated in the art of African travelling. It is a little difficult to define the feelings of a new arrival who has before him or her the prospect of life and work in that country. The memories of magnificent lives laid down for its people fill the heart with an intensely solemn sense of responsibility and dignity ; records of travel and adventure kindle a love of daring, and a desire for oppor- tunities of heroism ; while the meagre knowledge that exists on the interior districts breaks the imagination of the traveller away from its leading strings.

The port of British East Africa — the Island of Mombasa — is a typical foreign mercantile coast town, with its medley of craft, ships, yachts, tugs, boats and canoes manned by seamen of various nationalities, pushing, hustling and screaming in all the tongues of Babel. The handsome old Arab fortress that stands on its jagged rocky prominence as a sentinel at the entrance of the harbour, takes one back to the time before the port was taken over by the British, and when it was used by those who had carried on the terrible slave traffic in the

I B

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

interior. A little to the left is to be seen the British Consulate with its Union Jack fluttering from the mast as the emblem of liberty and justice to all who come under its jurisdiction.

As we stepped from the ship's deck on to the landing- stage the sun felt distinctly African. The dazzling white and somewhat congested streets seemed to singe our very boot leather. It was a relief to have pointed out a strip of bright green mainland which lay at the extreme end of a sheltered bay, as the place where hospitality would be offered me and two others of our party of seven, while preparations were being made for our journey up country. A short row brought us to this mission station of the Church Missionary Society — Freretown — the situation of which is very pleasing ; in front stretches the transparent blue bay, beyond to the right the white minarets and red tiled roofs of Mombasa, and all around dense foliage — mango and banana trees, creepers and shrubs and flowers in tangled confusion. A warm English welcome awaited us from our missionary friends there who were domiciled in a solid two-storied brick house.

The guest room delegated to me was evidently an afterthought, as it was constructed of corrugated iron with plaited grass stretched across for a ceiling. The room opened out on a broad balcony, and as it is the custom to leave open the doors at night to catch the least sus- picion of a breeze that might blow in across the bay, the bats and rats made free use of my room until daybreak. The first night I found the rats had shewed an appreciative appetite for Cadbury's chocolate, for they completely finished off my half-pound tin which had been tusselled for at a chess tournament on board ship.

The terrible famine up country had brought many half- starved folk to the coast. Bishop Peel had sent down some 30 to 40 girls and boys from the Wanika tribe to be clothed, fed, and cared for at the mission dormitory. Starvation

2

A Journey on the Uganda Railroad

had played frightful havoc with them. One wee babe of about two years, all skin and bone, had had her hands held in the fire by her mother because hunger bad driven her to steal a banana. Her tiny fingers were twisted back and much distorted, some joints having entirely gone. Other children had no toes, these having bean literally eaten away by the little insects known as jiggers, which are very numerous inland, and trouble Europeans as well as natives.

On Sunday we went to morning service in the splendid brick native church. As it was conducted in the Swahili language we could only follow in silence the order of the liturgy. The church, holding about 500 people, was almost full. Colours were very pronounced among the women. The girls were dressed in white gowns with red handkerchiefs round the head ; but the elder women adopted the most remarkable hues : orange-coloured sashes and violet head gear were the most conspicuous. They attended very devoutly, and as I knelt at the Communion rails with a native woman on either side, that text appealed to me with a new power " Other sheep I have . . . and there shall be one fold and one Shepherd." In the afternoon I delivered my first message to Africans. I had been asked to speak through inter- pretation to a class of women ; it was not easy to stand up before one's first audience of dusky faces and to try and adapt the message to their minds — an unexplored land as yet to me — to choose carefully words which would lend themselves to interpretation and to recollect the point stopped at between the sentences.

The morning after our arrival we all met in the office of the Church Missionary Society's agency. Before us were arrayed a dozen Swahili lads who were coming up country with us to act as our personal attendants. Each of us was to be allowed the sole service of one, the half of another, and a quarter of another ; that is, one boy was

3

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

to act as housemaid, two of us would share a cook, and four a cook's mate. Minute instructions were given us as to travelling arrangements, which resulted in, for one thing, the re-adjusting of every one of our loads that weighed anything over 65 Ibs. It let me in for some days of arduous labour. If it had not been for my newly acquired " housemaid " Richard, who had attached him- self to me after that morning in the office, the unpacking and re-packing would have proved an almost hopeless task in such melting temperature. The last load nailed down contained a heterogeneous collection of groceries, Monkey Brand soap, photos, a saucepan, and a few garments, all of which had been taken out of loads of overweight. Quite unexpectedly we heard that our start up country was to be made on the fifth day after our arrival at the coast. A breakdown was hinted at as being likely to occur on the railroad on account of the heavy rains that had fallen. Apart from this we were told that the train would accomplish the 364 miles of its journey in one day and night. At railhead our caravan of porters was awaiting us, as also the two donkeys and two jin- rickshas, which would prove essential in case of sickness on the road. We speedily fixed our bicycles up on hearing of the immediate start to be made, which seemed to make us all desperately impatient to be spinning along the African roads to Uganda.

On February 23rd we left Mombasa. A large party of missionaries met at Freretown Church at eight o'clock for united Communion. Then we hurried down to the shore where a boat awaited us to take us across to Port Mombasa. After getting together all handbags and other small baggage we were packed away in a ghari — a tiny truck for four persons, with shade, run on rails along the street. A curious party we looked ; three gharis left the town, boxes, bags and rugs heaped up in a pile, a few natives scattered about here and there among us, and

4

A Journey on the Uganda Railroad

boys pushing behind. These vehicles simply fly along when going downhill ; one box toppled over in one of these wild escapades, and the whole contents burst out and were scattered about on the road. Then a derailment of one ghari necessitated the passengers dismounting, and the cars that followed in the wake being carried round the obstructing car. The terminus of the railway is at Kilindini, which lies about two miles outside Mombasa. At the station a strange scene confronted us. People from various countries were rushing about in a state of great excitement, all struggling to crowd into the few compartments allotted to fourth class passengers. They were so jammed together that one could only expect to see the carriages burst apart with the pressure from inside. Our compartments were ever so much better than I had expected ; two had been reserved for our party of seven. Perhaps some of us were a little disappointed that there was no "roughing it," but we tried to console each other with the thought that there might be a breakdown on the line. Our feelings can be imagined when the train whizzed away and kept up a most respectable speed, in fact, behaved itself like a civilized being. We had armed ourselves with plenty of provisions, but found that good meals had been prepared for us at various long halting stations on the route. Wanting to lighten our supplies, however, afternoon tea was suggested, and as passengers could walk from one compartment to another by means of an outside foot-board, even though the train was running, we invited all the members of our party in to a social tea. My canteen was produced and efforts were made to boil the water, but the train was shaking so unreasonably that the small kettle needed to be constantly replenished during the boiling. We had to warn our guests to avoid the streams of water that were running down the carriage from the kettle spout, but the last arrival made a dreadful mistake by sitting on

5

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

the top of the teapot just as the tea was made. This was not discovered until the whole contents were upset and the offender realized a scalding sensation.

The first day on the Uganda railroad was certainly not the most enjoyable; the heat was stifling and the dust so obtrusive that in spite of having the windows closed, in less than an hour everything had assumed a brownish-red appearance; the carriage cushions, our clothing, hair, and eyes were full of it, and if one did venture to open the lips to pass a remark, a mouth-wash was necessary. Mile after mile of country v/as passed where the grass was entirely burnt up, and almost all trees and shrubs dried and bleached. The land was in the grip of famine, whose hand of death had touched all nature. Some of its last victims dragged their exhausted limbs to the banks of the railroad as the train passed through their land of hunger. Poor wee children, their sharp bones standing out in a most ghastly manner, looked like skeletons moving. We gave them food which they voraciously seized, but alas, many had got beyond the power of eating.

Our first halting place was Voi, which we reached at seven p.m., after a run of eight hours. As the train was not leaving again till eleven o'clock we were allowed time for a short rest after dining at the station bungalow. Native couches of woven grass stretched over wooden frames were given to us, but the need of mosquito nets and blankets drove all ideas of sleep away. The next morning we found the scenery had entirely changed ; vast stretches of plain and gently undulating country extended for miles on either side. This district, known as the Athi plain, is thickly populated with all sorts of wild animals. There were scores of antelopes, zebras, and ostriches. The tracks of lions were pointed out to us, but these are the only animals that apparently do not venture near the trains in broad daylight.

Nairobi, which has been named the " tin-town " on

6

account of all the buildings being composed of corrugated zinc, is quite an important place. It is one of the head- quarters and workshops of the railway company, and a large and rapidly increasing European, Indian, and Arab population has settled here. From this point we had to take up our porters, and this was not an easy matter. Instead of the 300 or so required, only about 150 were procurable to carry all our loads of food supplies, clothing and household requisites for the road and our destination, besides various other boxes and literature for missionaries and mission work in Uganda.

After leaving Nairobi another complete contrast opened out before us. Dense thickets, forests and jungle covered hill and dale, without a sign of human life. Truly the world seemed here as in infancy, and the railway a harsh discord of civilization. It is a rest to the mind and soul to pass through these world's natural parks ; the deep long silence, unreached by man's babble, carries in its air a breeze from Home and one's whole inward being rises on the wing to its God. I wondered why such miles and miles of uninhabited land existed when "He created it not in vain, He formed it to be inhabited." Was it that He might give us "the treasures of darkness and hidden riches of secret places " which God deposits in regions where, untrammelled by the footprints (not the results) of sin the Shekinah dwells revealed in such natural splendour ?

On Sunday at two p.m., we found ourselves at rail- head. The train before ours had been derailed several times on account of the heavy rains washing down the new embankments, but as trains only run once a week, repairs had been temporarily completed, so we finished our journey without a single mishap.

I wish you could have seen our plight as we arrived. To begin with, even in the finest weather the country would always appear somewhat dreary ; nature has no

7

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

behaved very liberally. The train drew up abruptly, not because of its having reached a station, but there was no more line on which to run. The only buildings were a few tents and iron sheds, the property of the six Europeans and score of Indians employed on the construction of the railway. The whole country was under water, and the rains were sweeping down in a deluge. Out of the waters appeared our two jinrickshas and a few boxes, and these indicated the spot where we were to camp. Our first inclination was to remain in the train, but as that had to return at once, we waded out and about, and did not quite know what to do next. Here the Europeans came nobly to our assistance and offered the ladies shelter in a tent called the post-office. It is remarkable what a lot it takes to make you depressed in Africa. In England I believe most of us would have felt rather despondent, but none of us confessed to those feelings. After a cup of tea, with condensed milk, had warmed us up, we gave a right good British cheer as a tapping at the telegraph wires in our tea room told us of a splendid British victory at the seat of war.

Towards evening the rain ceased and as the ground was well digged round with trenches the water quickly drained off, so our tents were unpacked and erected. The railway officials kindly supplied us with a number of solid planks, which formed a firm flooring over the mud.

The tents looked so warm and bright in the midst of such grey surroundings. Camping out was quite a new experience to most of us and we immensely enjoyed moving in to our new quarters. When we had got straight the whole party came together in our tent, squeezed round the tiny table, and we had a thanksgiving service. Through the goodness of God, things had marvellously adjusted themselves, considering the short time and the swamped condition of the country. We all sang the Te Deitm till our little tent rang with voices.

8

A Journey on the Uganda Railroad

As we joined in the general thanksgiving and prayers I can truly say that no more heartfelt praise ascended into the courts of Heaven from any temple that Sunday evening, than from our little tabernacle in the wilderness.

Outside, darkness reigned, except for the porters' fires, burning in every direction, with the black figures squatting round, which gave the whole scene a weird and fantastic appearance.

The next morning all our loads were hauled out for inspection, and owing to the lack of porters we were obliged to choose out such as would be required for more immediate use ; the remaining boxes had to be stacked in a rather too well ventilated shed to await reinforcements of porters. This particular district was in rather a disturbed condition. The day before we had arrived some natives fired upon a European and killed him ; in consequence a small detachment of soldiers had been sent out to see into matters and had shot two natives. We were warned at night to have our camp carefully guarded by askaris,* as thieves were about in addition to any un- friendly folk who might be prowling round. So a fire was lit just outside our tents, and sentries stationed at close distances. They accosted every passer-by in angry tones, and those who did not use the password " friend " stood a very poor chance of getting off.

As we stood round the log-fire at evening, the thunder and lightning roared and flashed ; and then down came the rain and pelted hard all night. One of the tents was quite flooded ; the bed and furniture were rescued and the occupant moved into another's tent pitched on slightly higher ground. We had arrived in the rainy season, and were told that we must not be surprised if we got a daily soaking. It rather damped one's enthusiasm for camping out and cycling. This district is called the Kidong Escarpment, and is a ledge of land that suddenly drops * Native guards or soldiers. 9

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

some 500 feet. The railway takes a circuitous route to avoid this drop, but at that time a most elaborate temporary line had been laid down the precipitous bank, the cars being worked by cables. One had here an example of the almost insurmountable difficulties that faced the engineers of the Uganda railway, difficulties emphasised by the fact that all material required had to be imported from India or England. Viaducts, some of which are of gigantic height, frequently connect rock to rock, and along these the train has cautiously to pass. At other times the brave little locomotive pants and gasps as it toils along with its burden ; now and again it stops to gain breath, then it goes on again, climbing, ever climbing, till it has reached an altitude of 7,000 feet.

After the burning heat of the dusty plains, along which the train rushes with hysterical speed, filling the traveller with misgivings and treating him to plenty of rough shakings, how welcome is the cold frosty air of these African Highlands, which have proved no barrier to the Uganda railroad.

10

CHAPTER II

On Land and Lake

WE certainly set off for our first so-called tramp most professionally fitted out, but this only lasted for one day. The marching Norfolk dress was soon discarded for a loose blouse ; the water bottle, which did give one rather a heroic aspect, was quietly given over to the " boy " ; that wonderful compendium of knife, corkscrew, file, button hook, and so forth, which includes everything that you never want and nothing that you do, was likewise voted too heavy ; even the puggaree that had offered a suggestion of trimming to the very un- becoming bald topee, was thrown out, and any considera- tion for personal appearance that might have secretly lurked within was superseded by the one desire for comfort, as we steamed along on our bicycles over good, bad, and indifferent roads, the sun beating down upon us all the time.

Lake Naivasha seemed scarcely large enough to satisfy our inordinate thirst as we pulled up ; we were not a bit polite when tea was generously doled out to us by the Europeans stationed there, for none of us refused a fourth and fifth cup, even when we saw the supply was running short. I got very behindhand in my journal while on the road. Never had I been successful in keeping one for longer than a week ; on the seventh day it had become so intolerably dull that Dryasdust must even have yawned. Of course, Africa supplies you with plenty of material, but the methodical mind and will

11

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

power are somehow wanting. Let me tell you why. At 4.0 a.m. daily one wakes up with a start, for as the sun does not rise till 6.0, night still seems to rest heavily on the land and on one's eyelids. But the caravan leader is beating a drum, accompanying it with a shrill falsetto call to rise ; and if one dares to stay rubbing the sleep out of the eyes, the porters are fumbling away at the tent ropes, and before there is time to complete one's toilette, the whole tent flops down like a closed umbrella. A truly undignified exit is made by a dishevelled figure, and one turns up while breakfast is being served round the camp fire on tin crockery.

In the dusk we push off; a real expert rider you must be to dodge in and out of the porters who are already filing along on the narrow path, and have a happy knack of swinging round at the sound of the bicycle bell just as you pass — the tent-pole carrier was a veritable man- trap, and more than once pitched machine and rider into the ditch. I am sure I shall never complain again of English or even Scotch roads ; the ridges we have ridden over (often ending in a swamp) have helped to strengthen one's nerves and powers of balance. We generally reach camp before our porters, and then seek out some shelter till our tents arrive. It is a quaint sight to watch the long line of the caravan coming in; the men become very excited at sight of the halting place, and as the first man who carries a drum beats it with all his might, swinging a zebra tail round and round his head, the men all break into song and a slow dance, which gradually increases in volume and speed until the 65lb. box on the head is quite forgotten, the body springs about in mid-air, and finally throws itself down with a shout of ecstasy and an eloquent outburst of self-praise and congratulation

When tents have been pitched and bodily restoratives have been applied in the form of cool baths, a good meal and a sleep, the only possible hour for journalling has

12

On Land and Lake

come. But who could resist the desire to peep outside the tent door, and then into the new and fascinating features of folk, animals, birds, and country that surround the colony of tents ? So my pen remained idle for many days on the road, and as we were constantly going forward, it was not easy to go back and pick up broken threads.

The day from Lake Nakuro must have a few lines to itself. The usual 15 miles' journey had appeared exceptionally short on account of the good roads, and there being no houses or even signboard to tell you " this is camp," we rode past it unconsciously. While resting mid-day on the banks of a shady nook for a cup of tea and biscuits, two bicycles unfortunately fell over on my gear case and completely smashed it up. This made riding a little difficult for the remainder of the day, as the skirt would keep catching in the chain, and the gear-case strapped across the handle-bars did not allow much knee space. Very hot, dusty, hungry, and tired at 3.30 p.m., we came across a small Indian encampment which had journeyed up country for railway survey with a large number of pack mules. The campers told us we had come 34 miles. This rather alarmed us, for we wondered how our porters could cover that distance. It was a ghastly spot. The ground was strewn with numbers of bleached skulls and bones, which we afterwards learned were part of an Indian troop that some time previously had travelled down country under Mr. Grant, and had died for want of water.

After waiting some time scouts were sent out to search for our men, but as night fell they returned with the tidings that our caravan was camped some 15 miles away, and was too exhausted to push on. Having eaten nothing since 4 o'clock a.m., with the exception of that mid-day impromptu lunch, I must confess that our first consideration was for food. Fortunately one of our party

13

had shot during the day a bustard. This was speedily prepared and cooked in a pot lent us by the Indians. A few biscuits and some tea still remained in our canteen, and so sitting round an ember fire inside the stockade constructed for the mules as protection from the lions, we enjoyed, perhaps as never before, a hearty, simple and crude meal, .without chairs, spoons, forks, or even chop-sticks. We tried to effect further loans, and through the generosity of our new friends succeeded in procuring one small tent for the night. It was small, 6 feet square, and we five ladies had to pack into it. We did manage it by strictly adhering to the agreement of sleeping on one's side and not attempting to change over. There were no blankets, but certainly none of us felt the need of them ! The gentlemen kept guard round the watch fires all night, but I think they got in more sleep than we did.

In case such a thing should ever happen again, the men of our party were evidently determined to be prepared, for on the following afternoon we saw them shouldering their guns, and after hearing a few distant sounds of shot, two zebras and three antelopes were carried into camp ; and before we had finished admiring and pitying these splendid fallen lords of the country, they were carried off and skinned. The next sight we caught of them was in the form of Jong, gory strips festooned from branch to branch of a tree close by. The porters, hawk-like, were standing round, as hungry East Enders outside fried fish bars. Perhaps they can l^e partially excused when we consider the monotonous, unpalatable millet which constitutes their daily diet. At 7 p.m. a drum was beaten, and every man presented him- self in as famished a condition as he could assume. They stood like soldiers waiting to be decorated with the V.C. In a few minutes the tree was quite cleared, and outside each tiny tent was fixed on sticks venison and

14

On Land and Lake

wild beef roasting over the fires. The sounds of revelry had scarcely died away when the morning call drum sounded.

The people who live in the district through which we had hitherto passed are called the Masai tribe, a nomadic folk who travel about from one place to another, accord- ing to the pasture the land offers for their goats and sheep. They have distinctly warlike propensities, and a warrior chief is often met having a few armed followers, who, like their master, smear their bodies with grease and red earth, only wearing a small strip of cloth, or an animal's skin over the shoulder, and sometimes a few feathers in their matted and oiled hair. The fierce opposition they showed to the pioneer Missionaries is now no longer displayed ; in fact they appear somewhat timid and reserved.

The general physical feature of the land is soft, gently undulating country. But for the lakes Naivasha and Nakuro, and the River Gilgal, there is a marked scarcity of water. Not until we reached the Eldoma Ravine did we pass anything worthy of being called a forest. At that point we had risen 7,000 feet above sea level, and exquisite stretches of tangled forests of cedars and bamboos afforded a welcome relief after the dried up and treeless track we had been accustomed to. Cycling was quite impossible owing to the many trees that had fallen across the road, and the deep ruts made by the ox waggons which had passed along in the wet season ; one waggon, carrying along parts of a new boat to be floated on the Victoria Nyanza, was overthrown and broken up by one of these ruts the day we passed through the forest.

In spite of the weariness that often overcomes one travelling day after day under such a fierce sun, how glad I am that the railway had left us 300 miles of tramping before we reached the lake! Those who come up country now the railroad is completed will never experience

15

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

the fondness, and shall I call it proprietorship, that one seems to feel for the land when each step has involved labour, every little change from the prairie grass and thorn bushes been noticed and welcomed, and each new district and tribe prayed and longed over to be claimed for Christ. How can I describe the scene that stretched before me as I stood on the Nandi plateau overlooking the tranquil silver lake, the Victoria Nyanza, lying 3,oooft. below. The sun was slowly sinking towards the west, and, as it did so, drew the attention to the other side, our land of promise, Uganda. As the distant horizon and sky were flooded with a gentle red and golden light, salvation and victory seemed written in the handwriting of God upon the walls of that country.

Turning round towards camp what a contrast the scene presented. Hundreds of natives had congregated together dressed in animals' skins, and armed with shields and spears, which they were flourishing in the air with wild dancing and shrill war song — they were going out to fight with a neighbouring tribe. In the morning I had had an undesirable encounter with some of them. Having taken my writing case and pocket Bible to a hill a short distance away from where we were encamped to get a view of the wonderful panorama of plain and lake beneath, I had been somewhat startled by a number of men suddenly appearing from what at first were quite undistinguishable grass huts. Void of clothing they had painted their bodies with bright red earth, and had made various designs with grease on their limbs. Their hair was long and twisted into streaks by means of goat's fat, and each man carried a spear and shield. Soon a small crowd had gathered round, and I must confess to a certain feeling of uneasiness at the isolation of my position. However, I determined to evince no fear and tried to make the best of it. I undid my writing-case and showed it to them, and my watch. They literally

16

On Land and Lake

shrieked with delight and surprise when they saw the hands run round. The gilt edges of my Bible attracted them, so handling it reverently I tried to tell them it was God's Book, and drawing one of the children to me by signs, sought to convey to their minds that God loved us. I do not know if they caught my meaning, but I do know that God caught up the prayers that ascended for them.

The same evening a violent storm broke over us. One of our tents was literally washed out, not having had a deep ditch digged round in case of emergency.

After moving off again and descending very pre- cipitately to the level of the lake, the heavy rains were found to have made marching exceedingly difficult. We had to plough through thick black mud till we reached Port Florence, a distance of twenty-one miles. At one point on the road a stream about thirty yards wide had to be waded, as our porters were unavailable for carrying, having all gone on in front. The water in some parts was a foot deep, and it was by no means an easy thing getting through it when there were inches of mud from which the boots very reluctantly parted.

News had reached us that the steamboat Ruwenzori which had been sent to meet us and take us across the lake had been wrecked on the way, so we had to put off in an Arab dhow, a sailing boat used for transport purposes only, and one that offered no passenger accommodation.

Three thousand square miles ! Can you imagine a lake about that size ? And yet on our maps it is no larger than a boot button. Quiet and peaceful as is its normal condition, there are times when its mighty waters are lashed into uncomfortable anger, and casting up foaming crests break on the shore with the force and roar of an ocean's storm. Abundant in its resources, it can afford to be generous in its supplies ; with prodigality it pours its fulness into its off-spring, so that distant Egypt sub- sists on its benevolence — the Nile.

17 c

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

Although only 7 p.m., darkness had already set in as we made our way down to the rough landing-stage to be shipped for Uganda. The dhow looked uncomfortably small for its crew, seven English passengers, twelve " boys," and all their cargo. It could not get up to the little wooden pier, so we rowed out in dug-out canoes by the light of a hand lamp. This took time, and it was nearly midnight before everything was on board.

A small portion towards the stem had been reserved to our use for sleeping, feeding, and living purposes. One of the ground sheets of the tent was fixed up on four in- secure poles to form an awning over us.

Our sacks containing camp beds and blankets were placed about to act as bolsters as we lay down on the bare boards in the vain hope of sleeping. But they were the most bony bolsters I have ever known, for on what- ever corner you took up your position, there was a point of the bedstead running into you. We were all glad when a sharp breeze sprang up in the early morning, and the sails that had been nodding all night braced them- selves together for work.

Mid-day we passed a small island which is inhabited by fisher folk. They trap the fish by means of baskets with inverted necks like a safety ink-pot. Someone suggested pulling into shore in a canoe that was passing at the time for the purpose of buying some fish, but the people had misinterpreted our intentions and had armed them- selves with spears, and were waiting for us entrenched behind large rocks. So it was decided to lunch off tinned sausages that day ! Our prospects of landing and enjoy- ing a change at night from the hard boards of the dhow were shattered by the captain assuring us that he could not possibly waste such a splendid wind as was blowing, but must push on. Accordingly, mattresses and pillows were pulled out and spread on the deck, so that our couch might be a trifle more comfortable than on the preceding night.

18

On Land and Lake

The wind did blow, and the dhow pitched to and fro like the tub of Diogenes. He must have been a better sailor than most of us were, else he could never have steered his craft.

It was wonderful how the food was cooked. The Swahili boys are prodigies, and can somehow manage under any condition. Finding a large iron tray they built up their wood fires on it in the bow of the boat and with the usual three stones they boiled their kettle, saucepan or other kitchen requisites.

The scenery round the shores of the lake is exceedingly pretty. The land gently slopes upward. Here and there a belt of forest stretches down to the water's edge ; the grass huts huddled together in small communities just appear peeping out from the creeks and woods, and birds of gorgeous colours fly about or build their nests in the branches overhanging the water's edge.

On the third day of our trip we were becalmed, and it was decided to land on an island for the night so that we might get a complete change of toilet and rest. There was no canoe at hand to take us ashore, so a raft was constructed of poles and two large Masai hide shields which had been given me up country. We crossed over, two by two, carefully balanced in the centre of the raft, with shoes and stockings in our hands. The men managed to get a few things across, but the raft would not bear the weight of the tents. A ground sheet was once more utilized by tying it to branches of trees to form a covering over our camp and beds at night. Looking through the mosquito net I saw the stars peeping down, and the fireflies and glow worms lighting up the air and shrubs, and heard the croaking of the frogs and the night bird cooing in the trees. It seemed like a page out of childhood's fairy book.

There was no chance of getting off in the morning, and we made a tour of the island. It chanced to be the

19

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

one on which the Ruwenzori had been wrecked. The captain and his native crew had succeeded in getting safely to land, but were in a sad plight without shoes and socks and provisions. It was most fortunate our party happened to have lighted on that particular island, and so were able to replenish the meagre stores of these ship- wrecked mariners. The natives flocked together when they heard of the arrival of white men, and begged them to shoot the hippopotami that had been destroying their cultivation. They showed us round their village, in the centre of which was their devil temple. The head priest alone was allowed to enter. Round the courtyard were placed flat and upright stone slabs ; these were the seats of the priests, who sat round in a semi-circle when their head priest was inside invoking the evil spirit. The only one in our party who knew their language spoke to them, and they all united in asking that teachers might be sent to them to instruct them in these "good words." Now there is no need to send to them, for since then the island has been depopulated by the sleeping sickness. Not one inhabitant remains — and they died with their request unanswered !

On the morning of the eighth day we were all eagerly examining the fringe of land lying straight ahead. The opera glasses spied out a few dark figures moving about close to the landing stage. In imagination and Pears' Soap advertisements I had often seen the picture, the blue, transparent water, a stretch of sandy shore — the background of banana trees and palms, a few grass huts, and a dark-skinned figure standing out in bold relief with the broad smile displaying a row of white teeth. " Otyano Munange " (How do you do, my friend ?) and a prolonged exchange of grunts greeted us as we stepped from the dhow on to the shores of Port Munyonyo.

During the few minutes of waiting for our boxes to be unloaded I moved toward a little hut from which the

20

On Land and Lake

sound of voices was coming. Peeping in at the low door- way, I saw a man dressed in white linen (evidently the head of the household). He was sitting, reading aloud to a group of men and women gathered round him. The Book was the Gospel of St. John.

Surely this was Uganda, where the people who sat in darkness have seen a great light. It is wonderful what the Bible has done for them. Its influence penetrates the entire country, and its very utterances are the language of the people. Its expressions of greeting and farewell are used, and with reverence.

How our bicycles did run away with us over those seven miles to Mengo. After mounting them, we were followed by numbers of natives, and from every direction they came out of their shambas to greet us, falling down on their knees and saying, " You are our prayers, thank you."

On hearing of our arrival, our missionary friends had all started off to greet us. They described it as a little bit of England to see seven cyclists coming along with an impress of home which the five weeks' knocking about had not quite obliterated. The first one to meet us must have been guilty of scorching, as he was far ahead of the others, and he was determined to give us a real taste of Uganda right away, for he produced from his pocket some bananas (shall I own it, rather squashy) wrapped up in a newspaper ; they were good !

Next came along a mule, bearing towards us Bishop Tucker, who had come out to welcome his new recruits. I do not remember quite distinctly the other faces, for we were literally hemmed in by scores of excited natives, hustling, bustling, clapping, and chattering, seizing our hands and thanking us for having come so far to them, while tears of gratitude glistened on some of their splendid, intelligent, brown faces.

21

CHAPTER III

Mengo, Uganda

JUDGING from the view obtained from this, the native capital of Uganda, Mengo, the country seems composed of hills. On one of these stands the cathedral and missionaries' houses, and the splendid hospital, then just ready to be opened (but since burnt down), and holding fifty to sixty beds. The Roman Catholic Mission commands another hill, while on the highest is the King's palace. The head man of the district builds at the top of each hill, and his dependents live round, their site being determined by their social position. The whole district is densely populated, but this is difficult at first to see, as the huts harmonize with the vegetation around, or are hidden by the large banana plantations that surround each dwelling. What strikes a new arrival are the very wide, well-made roads that have been cut in various directions, quite a novel feature for Africa. Living out here is necessarily very simple. The English houses then resembled bungalows constructed of poles and light, long reeds sewn together by means of a black fibre : two layers formed the walls, with dried leaves stuffed between, the roof being thatched with grass. The floors were beaten earth, with skins or grass mats thrown down in place of carpets. There were only outside doors, pieces of terra cotta coloured bark cloth being hung as curtains between the inside doorways. The apertures made in the walls for windows were closed in

22

Mengo, Uganda

at night by shutters of sewn reeds. The rooms looked distinctly rural, with bookshelves, wardrobes, and cabinets made with packing cases of uniform size stacked one upon another. A few native curios and chairs placed about were rather more useful than ornamental.

Each missionary's house was fitted up with a spare room, but visitors were expected to bring their own furniture and attendants, even though it might be but a Saturday till Monday visit. If you were not a bona-fide fresh arrival you had to bring your cow as well. The European's staff of domestics consists generally of small boys varying from eight to thirteen years of age. These cook, wait, clean up, wash, in fact will do anything you want them to do and a great deal more besides. As we passed the little cook shed one evening the chef was rubbing up the roast chicken with his grimy little hands to give the final touch before sending it to table. The ladies employ female labour, and the girls range from three to fifteen years of age, after which they marry. One small thing of five years was " parlourmaid " to their household at the time of our arrival. At afternoon tea she strolled into the room with the tea-pot balanced on her head ; in the same exalted position were the vege- tables brought in at dinner served up in a large plaited basket shaped like a Japanese hat, with leaves placed under the unsweetened cooked bananas or potatoes.

The kitchen, like the servants' quarters, is built apart from the houses. There are no ranges or stoves. The cooking-pot, saucepan, kettle, or frying-pan sits on three bricks or large stones between which the firewood is rammed. The cooking-pots make successful ovens for bread-making if a tray of fire is placed on the top.

The day after our arrival being Sunday we had an early opportunity of witnessing a little of what Christianity has done for Uganda. The unreached tribes

23

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

we had passed through in their nakedness and savagery, propitiating demons, and offering human sacrifices, are what these people were before the Gospel reached them. Now, as the huge church drum, echoing from hill to hill, called to morning prayer, a continual stream of people was seen pouring into the large "basket" cathedral. As we entered at 9 a.m. what an impressive sight awaited us ! Perhaps the first thing that attracted one's attention was the veritable forest of poles that sup- ported the roof; but, then, looking down, the eye travelled over a sea of black woolly heads — of about two thousand men dressed in spotless white linen on one side, and of women draped in the bark cloths, so soft and restful to the eye, on the other. There were no chairs or pews, but each one brought a goat skin or grass kneeling mat. With no muffled, inarticulate voice did they join in the service, but as they all united in the Lord's Prayer a noise as of thunder sounded throughout the building. When the time for reading of the Scriptures had come, there was a general unbandaging of Gospels or Testaments, which their owners securely bind round in strips of calico to protect them.*

In the afternoon we paid a visit to the young king Daudi Chwa. His palace is approached by passing through an endless number of courtyards formed by woven cane fencings ten feet high. In some of these are circular reed houses for his courtiers and servants ; the last one is the royal enclosure. Three round buildings stand here, coloured grass plaitings over the entrance distinguishing them from others. In one, the audience chamber, sat the King, then aged four years.

* Surely the most ardent critic ot missions could not have failed to be convinced of the reality of these people's Christianity had he looked at the order of this great service. Their reverent behaviour as they worshipped in a church built with their own hands, and listened to one of their own native clergy, must have deeply impressed even the most cynical onlooker.

24

Mengo, Uganda

There was no furniture in the apartment; fine grass was carefully and uniformly laid on the ground, over which mats were placed on a slightly elevated reed dais. He was an important-looking little lad ; his curious get-up made him appear twice his age. In spite of the great heat, a man's European shirt fell in folds to his feet, and over this was an English greasy black morning coat, made to fit a man of abnormal proportions. Five women and two chiefs waited upon him. Not a word did he speak, but stared uninterruptedly, and when on leaving we had reached the last courtyard, I was peremptorily recalled. It was my velvet collar band he wanted to inspect.

The form of native government is very highly developed and remarkable, for a tribe that had had no contact with the forms of government adopted by civilized nations. The feudal system is practically that in vogue throughout the country, which is divided up into shires or districts placed under a chief called the Saza, who has his own sub-chiefs. He has the power of settling trifling local questions, but everything of importance has to be transferred to the King.

The English Government had recently levied upon the whole Protectorate a hut tax of 3 rupees yearly. This creates a new demand, and has had a salutary effect on a people whose needs are so few, and these so easily supplied, that they have had little necessity for learning the dignity of work.

Tourists could easily spend some days profitably in Mengo, where there is much of real interest to be seen. I will give my few days of excursion trips, as there is no Baedeker on the subject.

First day. — Grand reception by natives.

Second day. — Visit to Cathedral, Schools, and Industrial Department of the Church Missionary Society, open each day from 8.0 to 4.0. Pay respects to His Majesty Daudi I., King of Uganda.

25

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

Third day. — Uganda " Picture Gallery" in the Bishop's Palace (constructed of mud and wattle). Every picture produced by the Bishop's own brush while journeying through the country. They were so beautiful and give such a faithful idea of the country I simply longed to despatch the whole lot home.

Fourth day. — Three miles' walk to the ruins of Mackay's Church and house. Banana plantations now extend over his once carefully cultivated garden, a few scattered bricks (the first and only introduction of bricks up to that time in Mengo) point out the place where the foundation of the great invisible Church of Uganda was laid. As one stood there one almost felt surrounded by that crowd of witnesses of whom the world was not worthy. Just to the front is that sacred spot where the first native converts were martyred for their faith.

Fifth day. — Visit to the Hospital. I went with the doctor to observe and take notes for future use. The day's work commenced with a half-hour's service held in an open outside court. The gate was closed then against those who might come for the medicine without the morning prayers. Some 150 patients were seeking attention this day, and they were allowed into the tiny consulting room five at a time. They evidently have a good idea of anatomy, for they have a word for nearly every bone and gland. Their faith in the white doctor speaks eloquently of the cures he has effected. One man was quite hurt because the surgeon would not take out his liver.

On the same day can be fitted in a bicycle ride to the native potteries. Outside a small hut we found two men squatted moulding the soft clay with their hands ; a well rounded flint gave a polish to the pot, while a strand of coarsely plaited grass stamped on the soft clay gave a border impress. A huge wood furnace was burning in an adjoining court into which the vessels were placed and

26

Mengo, Uganda

baked. We were so interested in this process that the sun had set before we were aware of it, and our ride home was in pitch darkness over the deep rutted roads. I had a nasty fall which suggested that it might be wiser to walk our machines the remainder of the distance. When we reached Mengo sharp pain and swollen ankle told of a sprain. This kept me a prisoner for three days. It was rather providential, for the mail from England came in, and as no letters had reached us since leaving the home shores, just ten weeks ago, a very big budget was handed in to me. Only those who have really experienced it can enter into the awful homesickness that sometimes a girl feels on her first long separation from England. After some amount of tossing about and roughing it, to be suddenly carried back by a letter into the peace and quiet of the home, and to read all the interesting little natural bits which make you feel once again among the home circle, for a minute, when no one is looking, you may behave like a big baby.

The destinations of our party of missionaries were soon definitely fixed ; I was asked to go as one of the first women to Toro, a separate and independent kingdom nearly 200 miles further inland to the north-west of Uganda. It involves a journey of 12 to 14 days, as the road is rather tough and there are no conveyances. The wonderful growth of the work there dates from the conversion of the King Kasagama at the beginning of the year 1896, who was the first monarch to be baptized in the whole Protectorate. In 1897 he wrote the following letter to

the C. M.S. :—

TORO, February i, 1897.

To my dear Friends the Elders of the Church in Europe.

I greet you very much in our Lord Jesus Christ, who died for us

on the cross to make us children of God. How are you, sirs ?

I am Daudi (David) Kasagama, King of Toro The reason why

I commence to tell you that is because I wish you to know

me well.

27

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

God our Father gave me the Kingdom of Toro to reign over for Him, therefore I write to you my brethren to beseech you to remember me and to pray for me every day, all the days.

I praise my Lord very very much indeed for the words of the Gospels He brought into my country, and you my brothers I thank you for sending Teachers to come here to teach us such beautiful words.

I therefore tell you that I want very much, God giving me strength, to arrange all the matters of this country for Him only, that all my people may understand that Christ Jesus He is the Saviour 01 all countries, and that He is the King of all kings. Therefore, sirs, I tell you that I have built a very large Church in my Capital, and we call it "The Church of St. John."

Also that very many people come every day into the Church to learn the "Words of Life," perhaps 150, also on Sunday they are very many who come to worship God our Father in His holy Church and to praise Him. I also tell you that in the gardens near here we have built six Churches. The people of this place have very great hunger indeed for the " Bread of Life," many die every day while still in their sins because they do not hear the Gospel. The teachers are few and those who wish to read, many. Therefore, sirs, my dear friends, have pity upon my people, in great darkness ; they do not know where they are going.

Also I want to tell you that there are very many heathen nations close to my country — Abakonjo, Abamba, Abahoko. Abasagala, Abasongola, Abaega, and many others in darkness. We heard that now in Uganda there are English ladies ; but, sirs, here is very great need for ladies to come and teach our ladies. I want very very much that they come.

Also, my friends, help us every day in your prayers. I want my country to be a strong Lantern that is not put out, in this land of darkness.

Also I wish to make dear friends in Europe, because we are One in Christ Jesus Our Saviour. Now good-bye, my dear friends. God be with you in all your decisions.

I am your friend who loves you in Jesus,

BAUD I KASAGAMA.

How well I remember the deep impression that request

28

Mengo, Uganda

made on me as I read it, little realizing at the time that God would send me out in answer to it. Mr. and Mrs. A. B. Lloyd were also located to Toro, and Miss Pike, who had arrived in Uganda six months previously.

As soon as we knew our location we went off to Kampala, the market place and Government station of Mengo, to lay in a stock of oil, wheat, matches, bark cloths ; also cowrie shells, beads, and calico, which are the currency of the Toro district. Our purse took the shape of two large sacks, each weighing 65lbs., and these needed two men to carry them.

Kampala was very different from Namirembe. Swahilis, Indians, Arabs, and natives crowded the narrow, stuffy street called a market place. Open booths extended down either side, and on shelves were displayed various native grains and vegetable produce, while gorgeous coloured prints and calicoes, baads, and brass wire adorned the outfitters' shops. As we passed along, small amused crowds followed us to see the " tall ladies."

The law court would have shocked the members of the profession of Fleet Street. It was a barn-like structure built of reeds ; there were no benches and witness boxes, the only official item being a coat of arms wrought on an enamelled iron plate over the judge's seat and table.

We heard there was a nice little white-washed mud house awaiting us in Toro, but there were no windows or doors. The European missionary already working there promised to make these when we supplied him with wood from our packing-cases.

Toro was still in its very dark state, but the people were willing and eager to learn. The Uganda of the present has been the result of years of labour, the cost of noblest lives, the scenes of grandest heroism, the patient, untiring, lonely work of such men as Mackay, Pilkington, and many others. Toro appeared to have few physical dangers, but the moral and spiritual difficulties were just

29

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

the same. A fortnight's journey seemed a long distance to the nearest European station, especially to one straight out from the roar and bustle of London life, the noise and rattle of a large family of brothers and sisters.

We felt very incompetent implements, but remembered the prayers going up for us in England, and believed that they would have power with the great Master-Builder, the Architect of the ages — so that the habitation being builded together for God in Toro might be " all glorious within."

30

CHAPTER IV

Toro : The Land of the Mountains of the Moon

ON Tuesday, April loth, igoo, the start was made for Toro. Our caravan of porters had been sent on before to have our first camp in readiness on our arrival.

Bishop Tucker, who was coming our way for two days on a visit to an out-station, set off on his mule, with Miss Pike mounted on a most apologetic-looking donkey. The Lloyds and myself arranged our departure two hours later, as our cycles promised a quicker method of locomotion. Having said the last good-bye to friends, I went away for an hour's quiet to get strengthened for the journey. Taking out my " Daily Light " I looked for its message, which was the promise given to Israel while in captivity, " Thy renown went forth among the heathen for thy beauty, for thou art perfect in the majesty (R.V.) that I have put upon thee, saith the Lord." What a glorious responsibility through the graciousness of God to be allowed to proclaim the renown, beauty and majesty of Christ among the heathen.

At 3.0 three cyclists could have been seen scorching down the hills from Mengo with a crowd of boys and men as bodyguard, all the twelve miles to camp. Africans seem to be possessed with an extra breathing reservoir, for they can run almost any distance without stopping to regain breath. It was dark or semi-obscure in the small forest opening where we found our encampment. Miss

31

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

Pike was unceremoniously seated on a big box swallowing pints of tea ! The porters had tried to erect our tent, but had not learned the knack, and we had to creep into flabby folds of canvas. It looked like a native who wants his one daily meal — it sadly needed inflating. Oh, dear ! How did we manage that night ! It became dark so soon, everybody had to fish about with candles among a medley of boxes, porters and food. Our Baganda boys were certainly not trained like the Swahili attendants who came up with us to Uganda, in the mysteries and arts of camping out. European equipments were un- solved conundrums to them. Our four youths looked hopelessly vacant, jabbering about round the tent, doing nothing but getting into one's way. When we did sit down to a personally - superintended cooked meal, the " waiter " knocked the wash-hand basin of water over my pillows, which had to be round a fire all -night to dry. The "boys" can learn to do things fairly nicely if you have patience to allow them plenty of time for an idea to filter through their minds. They wanted an hour for preparing our table at each meal, which was only furnished with the simplest and most limited number of things. Sitting down before the food box they took out every tin and contemplated each one for some minutes before deciding whether salt was eaten with tea, jam with meat, and so on.

The next morning at 4.30 we were all astir again, and as soon as our belongings were packed up, were on our way. How I wish I had the power of descriptive writing to enable others to peep into one of the many exquisite belts of forest that crossed the road at constant intervals. They surpassed any Kew tropical greenhouse. Unlike the tangled disorderly forests passed on our way to Uganda, date palms, trees, climbers, flowers such as orchids, sunflowers, wild pea and tomatoes flourished there in perfect life and vigour.

32

The Mountains of the Moon

Emerging from the cool shade of these trees, our track passed through stretches of papyrus and pampas grasses eight to fifteen feet high. It was almost impossible to see the path of about one foot wide which had become over- grown and covered by broken tiger grass. Cycling was anything but easy. We had to butt our sun helmets into the long, wet waving grass, blindly careering forward. There is absolutely no level ground between Toro and Uganda, but a succession of hills over the tops of which the road has been cut. The descents, sometimes very steep are dangerous on account of the thick muddy swamps that frequently wind round the bases of the hills. The bridges over these swamps often get washed away in the rainy seasons. One almost feels the treacherous malaria, as heat waves sweep heavily along, while being carried through these " Sloughs of Despond " on the shoulder of one of the strongest porters. I suppose one of these was responsible for the heat sickness that I woke up with one morning. A long tiresome march lay ahead, so the hammock was insisted upon, and six men, lent by the chief of the village, came as carriers. It was rather ludicrous to watch the sympathy of the natives. I could have imagined myself dying; but the shock they sustained when the first little bit of decent road was reached ! In half-a-minute the awe-struck men stood gasping as, call- ing out to be lowered, the poor, dying " Mukyala " (lady) coasted down a tempting hill. They looked quite relieved when they found her awaiting the hammock at the foot of the next climb.

In one camp the chief came to pay us his respects and brought six old men with him and several folks to whom he wanted to show the white ladies, none having passed along that way before. I could do nothing more than greet them with an extenuated string of grunts, but this pleased them immensely. Mr. Lloyd asked if I •would let down my hair, as they had never seen

33 D

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

anything different from their own cropped, frizzy pates, and the short hair of a few white men. Out came the hairpins, and as the hair tumbled down a loud laugh of delight and surprise came from every onlooker. A lesson in hairdressing 'followed, and each twist, turn and pin was watched with lively excitement. A spoonful of salt was given round to every visitor before leaving. Their eyes glistened, their hands were lifted to their mouths, the tongues protruded, and, oh, the delight of that moment ! They smacked their lips and relished it as much as I enjoyed sherbet in girl- hood's days. The remaining dainty morsel was tied up in a piece of banana leaf.

The roads proved too much for my poor wheel. Until it could be attended to by a London specialist it had to be regarded as a chronic displacement. The strain on the fork had been too incessant and heavy with only a front rim brake. The ruts, ditches, and obstacles had given it a terrible shaking, and finally succeeded in literally tearing the fork away from the bar. The remainder of the journey, about 140 miles, had to be covered on foot. Miss Pike was in the same predica- ment, as the donkey gave in even before the bicycle.

On the sixth day from Mengo we reached Lwekula and put up at a European fort, vacated now, but built and occupied at the last Soudanese rebellion when the Nubian troops and Mohammedan population were up in arms against the British Government. It is a square fenced-in enclosure with sentinel boxes at each corner and a deep, dry moat surrounding it. Two or three reed sheds stand inside, one of which we made use of instead of our tents, which are intensely hot during the day time. Unfortunately, Mrs. Lloyd was taken with bad fever as we reached here, and as her temperature remained at 104 on the third day a special runner was dispatched to Mengo asking Dr. Cook to come out to her. The six

34

The Mountains of the Moon

following days of waiting for his arrival were anxious times to us all, and we watched by her bedside day and night. When he did come the fever refused to yield to treatment. After a fortnight spent thus it was decided that she should be carried back to the nearest European station three days away. Before leaving, the doctor had an opportunity of relieving several poor native sufferers. One was a tubercular case, which necessitated amputation of the finger. In lieu of an operating theatre the patient was laid on the ground and given chloroform ! We enjoyed a few regular out-patient days of hospital life again.

The knowledge that our two travelling friends must return had come to us on my birthday, and a new weight seemed added to my quarter of a century of life. They had been like brother and sister to me ever since leaving England, and now it was like going away from everything that connected one with the old land. Then I turned to my Bible, and Psalm 22 was the birthday portion — " The Kingdom is the Lord's " stood out as written in gold. I could nsver get beyond God's country, God's territory. It brought such peace, comfort, protection. No longer was it one person almost alone in a big strange land, but a child of a King who reigneth in Africa as in England, and never sends without Himself going, too.

The doctor left at 12.0 p.m. on April 30th to get ready the camp for the Lloyds, and at 4.0 p.m. we fixed the invalid up in the hammock and left the Fort with them. It was a sad and silent procession, and a talk with Mr. Lloyd showed us how bitter was the disappointment to them both. At sunset we stood and wished them good- bye, and it just needed all the strength we could command to keep back the hot tears that wanted to fall with those that shook the poor little patient. Neither of us could speak as Miss Pike and I returned to the desolate Fort. Already two of our companions has been obliged to turn

35

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

back, and we two girls were left to go on with a missionary who had come out to escort us to Toro.

At midnight my companion was seized with violent sickness and slight temperature. Donning slippers and enveloping myself in a blanket, I ran out across'the Fort to rouse one of the boys for hot water. It was awfully uncanny. The starlit sky was entirely shut out by angry clouds, and the darkness was intolerable. Only the shrill shriek of the hyenas broke the stillness, and I half expected the faint light from my candle lamp to fall upon a leopard or reptile.

After two days, however, she so far recovered as to be able in a hammock to take up the journey once more.

I am quite sure Heber had never visited Uganda when

he wrote : —

11 Where Afric's sunny fountains Roll down their golden sand."

If he had done so it might have run : —

" Where Afric's swamps and mountains Meet one on every hand."

Our experience next day especially proved this. At 6 a.m. a cloudless sky greeted us, and damp white mists were sleeping in each hollow. At the foot of the first hill we were confronted by a long swamp with tall papyrus grass growing on either side. We had recourse to the hammock, and as the water reached the carriers' waists, one felt the canvas was some inches in water and that it was a case of floating through the dirty, stagnant river. I wondered if poor little Moses in the bulrushes ever felt as we did among the papyrus. The second swamp gave us a little variety, as the reed bridge had been broken down and the step down into the swamp was so steep that we felt uncomfortably like sliding over the front carrier, while the climb up at the other end gave us our first sensation of standing on our heads.

36

The Mountains of the Moon

At ii o'clock we halted under a tree and feasted on sausages (tinned), sweet potatoes, cornflour, biscuits, and tea. Sausages are a great treat out here, and we only indulged as we were doing a double march to reach Toro that day week. We then waited till 2 p.m. so as to allow the sun to cool down a bit, and enjoyed reading an English newspaper, the " British Weekly," of February i6th date. After that we felt quite ready to continue our march, reaching camp at 4 o'clock, only to find our tents had been pitched on such a disgustingly dirty old camp- ing ground that they had to be taken up and erected some hundred yards further on.

Diary-making that day was impossible. Our tent, from the bottom to the top, was literally lined with mosquitoes, and their singing quite put in the shade the Royal Choral Society at the Albert Hall. In the two previous camps they had covered the roof, but evidently never tasted the joys of European flesh and feared to descend. These others were more initiated.

Arriving at Butiti, which is only 30 miles from Kabarole, the capital of Toro, we found a most prosperous work going on among the people. Our kind escort from Lwekula, Mr. Ecob, was stationed there. A marriage was solemnized in the Mission Church on the day of our arrival. We went out of curiosity and to get a peep into the native customs. Never have I disgraced myself by such uncontrollable laughter. First of all, the pair were not forthcoming, and so the parson organized a search party. A hilarious sound from the porch warned us of the bridegroom's arrival. He was a lanky stripling of about 17, dressed in a long white gown. His best man wore a very hole-y shirt, Jaeger-coloured for want of a wash. An unwound turban was thrown over his shoulder till required. The bridegroom went forward and squatted on a grass mat in front of the chancel to await his betrothed. Soon a slow, solemn procession

37

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

coming in at a side door brought in view the belated bride, accompanied and surrounded by about thirty maidens. How can I describe that picture ! She was ugly — as ugly as the imagination could picture ; some- what advanced in years ; her face was marred by cutting and branding, and she was reeking with grease which was amply smeared over face and shoulders. On her head sat a red Turk's cap worn as a sign of marriage or high station. This, on account of its size, had the appearance of a candle extinguisher. Then her body was swathed in all sorts of coloured prints and beads. After the ceremony, the couple left by different doors, the bridesmaids holding an old torn " brollie " over the retiring bride, who was weeping copiously. The women regard marriage in rather a philosophical light. They say it has two arms. One brings a home, protection, and presents of clothing and rejoicing. The other, shuts the door of liberty ; it brings work, and that means sorrow. The thought of the latter predominates on the wedding day. When six miles away from Butiti we got our first view of the Mountains of the Moon. I can never forget the sight that was suddenly opened up as we turned a sharp bend round a high hill. It was 4.30 p.m. Huge peaks, sharp and rugged, stretched from north to south in an unbroken range of sixty-nine miles long. Heavy black thunder clouds rolled over some of the summits, while the lightning shot out angry tongues of fire. Torrents of rain were sweeping away to our right, while the sun beat down in full strength upon the valleys. Above all, calm and serene, shone the region of snow. For all ages the sun has directed its equatorial power against that ice fortress. Storms have thundered and crushed against its foundations, but it has ever stood as the one impregnable and unsullied witness of holiness and purity to God, in a land where darkness has reigned, and the storms of passion, vice and barbarity have laid desolate.

38

The Mountains of the Moon

Descending to the forest just beneath us, we sat under the shade of its trees, keeping well in view of glorious Ruwenzori. While tea was in preparation we just gave ourselves up to the influences of environment. For a moment we even dared to feel poetical. Long forgotten stanzas lived again in the memory, but were all put down as original and momentary genius. My turn having come round, I made a rush at something with a guilty conscience of poaching on another one's preserves, and it ran something like : —

" Mountains on whose rugged breast The labouring clouds do often rest."

But I got no further, for who should appear but someone suspiciously like a tourist. So unusual a sight made us forget English customs, and we waited for no introductions. We received a real warm welcome straight away from our companion-designate and only co-worker in Kabarole.

Next morning we rose at 5.0 and saw the sun rise on the snow peaks and then started on our last walk.

Almost immediately runners met us bearing letters from the King and Queen, the Namasole (the King's mother), the Prime Minister, and chiefs, all welcoming us in words of warmest thanks. These men scarcely waited for our verbal answer before rushing back. In fact, the road for a long way ahead was defined by men and boys rushing toward and from us with messages. As we drew nearer a few teachers and others came to prepare us for the reception that awaited us, and informed us that the women of Toro were congregated just beyond our next hill. We little guessed what an army lay entrenched there. As we approached, one moving mass of fluttering white and crimson gowns came bearing down upon us, rushing, clapping their hands, and shrieking. Then crowds of black arms were thrown wildly round our necks, and as many pates placed from one shoulder to

the other.

39

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

We talked as well as we could to them, but our pro- gress was slow, as every now and again they stopped us and repeated their demonstrations. Over the next hill the male force had rallied, and here a no less hearty though more formal welcome awaited us.

We made for the church, which was crowded, and a few impromptu prayers and hymns of praise went up on our behalf. Then we inspected our future white-washed home, and from that moment, all day long and every day, we were crowded with visitors.

The royal band was sent down by His Majesty to play outside our house. It was composed of six drummers and twelve fifers, whose instruments are able to produce about five notes, and with these they produce indistin- guishable tunes. Their appreciation of music seems to depend on the volume of sound produced, so in order to give us a proof of their welcome they blew to bursting pitch. All day long we were serenaded and at night, too. It went on into the second day, and thinking the bandsmen might prove to have stronger lung power than we had of endurance, we sent a polite message to his Majesty asking that they might be allowed to rest at night till daylight.

So at last we had reached our journey's end. The sixteen weeks that had run out since leaving home had been long and eventful. As the evening fell on our first day in Toro, we gathered round our log fire and sang together " O God our help in ages past."

40

CHAPTER V

The Country

TORO is one of the four Kingdoms that comprise the Uganda Protectorate and lies on the North-west boundary. The present outlook would lead one to think that it will remain unaffected longer than the other three neighbouring States by the inroads that civilization is making in Uganda, which the railway has brought into such close proximity to the outside world, while traders pass along the splendid caravan roads through Bunyoro up to the Nile, and to the Southern cattle-rearing Kingdom of Ankole. There is nothing to attract them to Toro, as the journey is a real physical effort, and there is no commercial prospect of mineral wealth or remunerative industry to justify the long journey. The ivory that formerly brought the Arab traders into the country is now almost entirely preserved by the British Government. So, unless Toro is visited by more suc- cessful prospectors than those who have already casually looked round, who shall discover some hidden mine of wealth, in all probability it will remain undisturbed in its present state of rusticity.

But it is a wonderful country, and one that must ever fascinate a lover of nature and its freaks. The moun- tains are in themselves a unique feature. One can scarcely reconcile the co-existence of an equatorial sun and eternal snows, yet so it is. Strange mountain tribes in quite primeval state live among its forests and creeks, while just on its other side extends Stanley's Great Forest with its pigmy inhabitants.

41

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

On all sides one sees the results of the operation of mighty unseen forces. Numbers of extinct volcanoes are visible from our hill, the craters of which form the beds of lakes now, with vegetation and forest growth stretching down their sides to the water's edge.

They must have enjoyed a good long sleep, as no hints of their activity are traced in the native traditions, which go back to a corresponding Adamic period. There are quite a number of legends, however, which invariably associate them with evil spirits that are supposed to live in the craters. This is believed even still by some of the raw peasants. One day a woman told me that her two little boys had been playing in the courtyard while she was at work, and the " Muchwezi " (evil spirit) from the Crater hill two miles away had come and run off with her elder child. For two years he had remained lost to them, when suddenly he returned clothed in a strip of bark-cloth and a charm round his neck peculiar to that evil spirit. He was sworn to divulge nothing of what had happened to him while being with the evil spirits in the crater, under the penalty of being caught away again by them.

Here let me recount a rather unique picnic we had at one of these crater lakes three miles away. It happened on a Monday — the Missionaries' off-day — when general repairs and washing are usually done, or visits paid to neighbouring villages. We started off on our bikes in high spirits which managed to survive a heavy thunder- storm that overtook us half way and soaked us through. We hung ourselves out to dry round a fire in the hut on the lake shore, and having warmed ourselves with tea made for the lake in search of wild-duck. We baled the water out of the dug-out canoe and set off with three boys as paddlers. You never met with anything more aggravating than an African dug-out ; they are so badly balanced that the least movement threatens to overturn

42

The Country

the skiff; and as for steering, that is out of the question. Anyhow, when we were far away from our landing point, the canoe refused to move, except in complete circles. We could make no headway; the united efforts of all — barring myself, who did not row — failed to move the boat except in rapid revolutions. Then a storm blew up and dark- ness seemed to be suddenly settling down on us. One of our party, who knew from experience our danger, was in a terrible fright. I tried hard to tune up to " Excelsior" and " Midshipmite," which eventually evidently appealed to the kind heart of the elements, for the boat moved and we were safely landed. But the return home was the difficulty. The moon went in as soon as it appeared, and as it was so dark a different route was suggested, in order to escape the river which we had to cross on our way out. About half way we found out that the recent storms had washed away the bridge we had relied upon to get us across the river and so were obliged to trust to other means. Miss Pike headed the procession on a boy's shoulder, but as the water came up to the lad's arm- pit her position was far from enviable. Then I ventured on the donkey, sitting in a sort of tailor fashion, but, alas! the water refused to let me off scot free. After that, in a miserably drenched condition, with our flapping skirts like reservoirs of water, we trudged on through long grass and thick mud, and at last reached a succession of deep swamps. One of these looked so tragic and interminable that the men insisted on crossing hands and taking me through in dandy-chair style. I shall not forget that experience. Like Christian of old, one of my carrier's strength and courage failed him, and half-way I became suddenly aware that he was rapidly disappearing under water. A violent yell brought small boys to the rescue, who, supporting me, managed to extricate him from the mud depths, and a second start was made ; but just as we were reaching the other side the same poor, unfortunate

43

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

man landed in more mud, into which he sank. Before I could release my hold, I saw him go completely under the water, and felt myself rapidly descending into the depths over his head. The situation was so ludicrous that the awful after-effects were forgotten in the. peals of laughter which no one could restrain, in spite of the poor man's miserable condition and my own.

To resume our description — on the east of Ruwenzori the land presents an unbroken stretch of undulating country; on the west side the land falls rapidly and forms the Semliki plain, so called after the river that winds zigzag through it, uniting the Albert Edward Nyanza on the south to the Albert Nyanza on the north.

Descending to this plain round the north end of the mountain range, the configuration of the land indicates two distinct ancient water levels ; this is confirmed by the quantities of small shells that are often - found in scattered heaps among the sandy soil, similar to those now found on the Lake shores.

With the exception of the fringe of the Congo Forest that enters the Toro boundary, and the Bamboo Forests that grow so thickly on the slopes of the mountains, Toro is not .abundant in trees and timber. Wide veins of woodland winding along the river courses, however, form welcome relief to the prolific elephant grass that covers hills and valleys. Looked down upon from a distance these extended forests present a rich variety of tints. Winter is never seen, for when old age strikes the branches, the tree breaks forth into its second childhood under the influence of the sun's rays. But on entering beneath the shade of these tempting oases, one realizes a feeling of disappointment, for everything appears to have outgrown its beauty. Powerful and unkempt creepers and rubber plants have wound their long bare limbs like poisonous snakes round the barks and branches of the trees till the vegetation has ceased to breathe in their grasp,

44

The Country

and has withered away. Then the mischievous little monkeys as they frolic and scamper about leave such litter behind !

Toro is almost entirely void of isolated trees. The annual grass fires that are lighted to clear the country for the sowing of the crops have given them no chance of an existence.

Banana groves are gradually springing up over the country, for the Batoro are emulating the example of the Baganda in adopting the unsweetened banana called " Matoke " as their staple food. Formerly they lived entirely on " Bura," a small millet which possesses a very low percentage of nutritive quality. The only thing that commends it is the infinitesimal amount of labour needed for its cultivation, and this is the chief consideration of these folk. They grind the grain between two stones which gradually crumble away in the process, making the food when cooked hardly distinguish- able from boiled sand.

Ruwenzori gives the whole kingdom of Toro a very plentiful water supply. The streams, flowing down from the ever-melting snow and ice, unite and form clear and swift rivers which provide the land with pure cold water, but at the same time make the country difficult for travelling about in. The crude bridges made by the natives get washed away in the rainy season, which often monopolises nine months out of the twelve. The moun- tains seem to attract every cloud that rises above the horizon. Nature indulges in most phenomenal pranks out there. There may be a perfectly bright cloudless afternoon, when suddenly it looks as if all the clouds of heaven had been unchained and let loose. From every direction they gather in impenetrable blackness, then girding themselves with fury, they burst forth and, with a hurricane in their wake, menace Toro with a few angry tears of passion and break with roars of thunder and

45

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

tongues of fire on Ruwenzori's side. Failing to shake that mountain ridge, they rebound and empty themselves upon Kabarole. In a few minutes the whole country is a wash-out ; the hills send down sheets of water, and so do our thatched roofs. Unless these are under constant repair, all our little black boys, when they see a storm coming, are armed with pots, pans, basins, and dishes, and stand about in the rooms to catch the rain water, and so save themselves the trouble of going to the spring. One afternoon a terrible thunderstorm broke over Toro ; the force of one clap, which was simultaneous with the most vivid lightning, was indescribable. A thunder- bolt seemingly had fallen just over our heads and sounded as if a million dynamite explosives had burst over us. Scarcely had one recovered from the momentary shock, when the dreaded sound " Tera enduru " was heard; this is a fire alarm which the natives produce by clapping their lips with the palm of their hand. Hastening outside, we saw clouds of smoke issuing from Mr. and Mrs. Maddox's house, which adjoined ours. Not waiting for hats or umbrellas, we hurried across to the yard, where boys and girls were rushing frantically about; Mrs. Maddox was in bed with fever in the very room where the fire had broken out. Her room was blazing away, while she was asleep, unconscious of her danger. Wrapping her in blankets, we managed to have her carried across to our house. The lightning had struck the corner of the room, instantly igniting the thatch, poles, and bamboo ceiling ; the flash had travelled through the room, just escaping the bed, but singeing a little Bible on the table close by. Really, her escape was nothing less than a miracle. In a very short time the Katikiro was on the spot with his men, and we all worked hard at carrying out the things. To save the house was an impossibility. It was merely a fight with time and fire — pulling down packing cases and books, carrying out stores, boxes, bedding, clothing,

46

The Country

crockery, tables, and chairs, and feeling the flames were quickly devouring all that lay in their way. When almost the last item was out, we were ordered away, and with a crash the end of the roof fell in, while the flames ascended in one solid, angry mass. Meanwhile, the King had posted an army of men to guard our house, and fan away all sparks with large banana leaves. All this had taken but fifteen minutes, so you can imagine the rapidity with which everyone had worked. The only things burnt were a tent and camp-bed, which had been stored in the roof, and were quite unreachable.

Fortunately, this happened just ten days before they were due to leave for England, so they were not homeless for long.

The whole of Toro seemed to crowd into our court, congratulating us all on our escape, and thanking God for protecting us. You will easily imagine how dead beat we were when the day was over, and how we welcomed sleep ; but this was not to be for long, for at 12.0 mid- night the same alarm of fire awakened us, and tearing on our dressing gowns and slippers, we found Mr. Fisher's women's house a conflagration. This was truly terrify- ing, as it was in such close proximity to his own house ; while, as the house was entirely built of grass and reeds, the flames were more rapid and dense. Black figures, silhouetted against the flaming background, were seen wildly scrambling up on to these two roofs, beating away the flames and sparks. It really seemed an impossibility to save either, especially when you heard people shouting " Muije okutukonyera enju yahya " ("Come and help us, the house is on the point of burning.") But I am glad to say the God of Deliverances was again with us to save, and to show forth His power. Nothing was lost but the women's house, and the possessions and clothing of the seven women. In the morning, this was found to be a case of incendiarism ; a small girl, who had recently

47

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

left through stealing, had set fire to the house to revenge herself on the women.

These things are a little bit upsetting to one's nerves ; the constant earthquakes and terrific thunderstorms keep one always girded for flight. One afternoon the missionaries had met together for afternoon tea, and suddenly there was a slight underground murmur, and the house shook as if it trembled. There were three windows and one door to the room, and out of them the three men instantly disappeared ; they looked rather shaken when they came back for their tea. It was agreed not to let out names !

On the western wide of Ruwenzori, and close to the base of that mountain range, are boiling springs contain- ing a considerable proportion of sulphur. The natives have discovered their medicinal properties for skin diseases and have digged channels so as to divert part of the water into trenches or pits where they can sufficiently cool it for bathing purposes. They also carry their food down to the springs, and in a short time the plantains or potatoes are cooked and ready for use.

Lying as it does on the Equator, Toro experiences scarcely any change of seasons all the year round, and in consequence of its being some 5,000 feet above sea level, the temperature scarcely rises above 75-80° Fahr. in the shade, while the nights are often cold enough to justify the log fires that the Europeans indulge in. The prodigious and constant rainfalls just rob the country of a reputation it might have held for possessing an ideal climate for the colonist and for agricultural purposes. Except in the low-lying marshy districts, Toro is exceptionally free from mosquitoes and malaria, and, up to the present, not one case of sleeping sickness has been known.

The soil is abnormally rich. Eucalyptus seed sown in the open produces trees of 12-156:. in 18 months.

48

The Country

Strawberries yield two and three plentiful crops annually, in fact growth has often to be checked, as in the case of cauliflowers, which need transplanting three times if fruit is to be obtained. Excellent coffee is grown in the country, and a very limited amount of inferior wheat. There is no reason why rice should not be successfully cultivated in the swampy soil, and tea on the sides of the mountains. The great obstacle to the developing of industries at present is the difficulty of transport to the districts where there is a profit-yielding demand. No minerals have yet been discovered with the exception of an appreciable amount of iron, which the people have instinctively learned to work ; they are able to turn out good spear heads, hoes, knives, and even rough needles of clumsy proportions.

This is undoubtedly one of the world's natural zoological gardens. Huge herds of elephants, sometimes numbering 200 or 300, trundle through the tiger grass; leopards and lions may be heard at night roaring after their prey, sometimes even round the capital ; crocodiles and hippopotami infest the lakes ; monkeys and chimpanzees scamper about the forests ; snakes lie coiled up in the long grass; and everywhere teems insect life, from the infinitesimal jigger to the locust. Lions are feared less by the people than leopards. In Bunyoro, where lions showed a leaning towards human flesh and blood, the King or Chief of the infested district used to send out two black cows or calves, and the lions, after having tasted their blood, no longer troubled the people, but dieted from that time on pigs and hyenas.

Toro is still in the infancy of its development ; the land, its resources, the people, and their possibilities are fields that give promise of a harvest of rich fruition to those who go to labour with mind and will.

49

CHAPTER VI Home Life

LIFE in Africa offers as sharp a contrast as is possible to imagine to the rush and bustle of the old country. Perhaps this is one of the earliest impressions that strikes one when coming straight from a large and noisy household in the Metropolis. The keynote of this country is " mpora, mpora" — "slowly, slowly," and its effects are seen and felt everywhere. Time is of no consequence or value to the people. The wheels of life revolve so slowly that I felt as if my whole being had been pulled up with a jerk. The clockwork of activity had to be allowed to run down gradually, in order to fall into correspondence with things around.

Having left England just after Christmas, with its memories of busy thoroughfares streaming with lights from the gaily decorated shops, and teem- ing with folks big and small all chattering and preparing for the festive season, I had scarcely hid time to forget all this noise and rattle before arriving at the antipodes of existence. Step out of the house one evening with me at about 8.0. Miles and miles of country lie faintly outlined by the phantom light of the moon — that orb of death. No other spark or ray breaks the long, wide expanse of darkness, and all the land and nature lie in profound sleep : no song of mirth or infant's cry reaches us, everything is mute and every- where is sleeping.

50

Home Life

Suddenly a shrill shriek from the hyena or a leopard's low growl drives us indoors. Oh for the rumble of a London 'bus or the rush of the Irish express as it passes the old home in a mad hurry night after night. There is the faithful companionship of a scratchy pen, so that is how one generally turns out a voluminous correspondent in these parts of silent Africa.

Now let that same pen tell something of our home and various domestic odds and ends. Our house was built of wood and mud daub with a roof of thatch. The rooms, five in number, were lofty and fairly large, with walls which could be called neither straight nor smooth — in fact they rather reminded me of " Uncle Podger's " wall that looked as if it had been smoothed down with a garden rake after he had been hanging a picture. But ours were whitewashed, and this, at least, gave them a clean and cheerful appearance. The fact was that a violent storm had slightly blown the walls out of gear before the ground had sufficiently hardened round the framework poles. The windows were ingeniously made of wood with calico nailed across as a substitute for glass. We had only one door to start with — the front door — made of the unpolished and unplaned material of two packing cases, ornamented with the names and destinations of the owners of the boxes. There was a verandah all round the house which kept it cool from the midday sun.

Really, it was a marvellous building when you consider that the workmen had never built anything different from the round beehive grass and reed huts in which the people live. The poles had all to be brought in from a forest seven miles away, and were carried in on men's heads. The mud was beaten by their bare feet. They had to be overlooked at every point and turn as they have no idea of work, or even a straight line, unless the European is actually on the spot to show them. And when that European was absolutely alone and endeavouring to act

51

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

as pastor, teacher, and schoolmaster to hundreds of eager and teachable people, the question is how he ever squeezed in time to build this and his own house.

Our tent furniture was far too diminutive and scanty to fill our five rooms, so we turned cabinet-makers, -and pro- duced some highly creditable articles, all things considered.

Piling up six packing cases of uniform size, and nailing round strips of native grass matting, we had a splendid " Liberty " bookcase.

A " cosy corner " was made out of two more boxes turned upside down, stuffed with shavings and covered with cretonne. It looked very comfortable but rather belied its name.

Our dining-room table consisted of the lids of cases joined up and nailed to four posts planted in the mud floor. After a few weeks the legs took root, and the young branches supplied novel decorations.

We framed a few large photographs in reeds and hung them where the walls were flat enough.

The nights in Toro are cold, for although we are only i "5 degrees lat. North, the capital is 5,000 feet above sea level. In consequence the houses are built with brick chimneys. With a bright log fire burning in the open hearth and a comfortable arm chair our sitting-room looked very cosy and bright. It is quite remarkable the amount of enjoyment one can derive out of things which cost nothing but a little hard work and a good deal harder thinking out.

One learns sometimes from rather trying experiences that several things which have been regarded as absolute essentials in England can so easily be dispensed with out here.

A lot of things brought out from home reached me in a hopelessly wrecked condition. As I have said before, on account of the scarcity of porters we had been obliged to

52

Home Life

leave several boxes behind. Three of the twenty-three I had left were never again heard of. As these were food supplies I hoped they nourished some of the half-famished natives we passed up country. But the cases that did arrive had been exposed without protection from the rains, and were absolutely rotten when they reached me ; the zinc linings had been destroyed by rust, and the con- tents reduced to pulp. In a sort of mechanical way I sorted out the different things, throwing aside books, letters, clothing, and nick-nacks on the rubbish heap. Some things could never be replaced — little recollections of the past and home-links. How reluctantly were these cast out ! — but God showed me that this was known and allowed by Him, and when once He shows us this, the sunshine bursts forth and the heart rejoices. It strengthens one all round when sometimes the temporal is shattered to allow the Invisible and Eternal to appear. I should not be at all surprised that our missionary example St. Paul had had all his loads spoilt by shipwreck when he wrote : " I have learned in whatsoever state I am therewith to be content ; not that I speak in respect of want."

On another occasion when our annual supplies from England were within one day's march of Toro the porters' shed was burnt down and all our loads but two were destroyed.

Now, as to food, there are just three items you can buy out here : goats, or sheep that have not an ounce of fat except in their tails. These cost about 2s. 8d. Chickens, which provide sufficient flesh tor one person's meal of very normal appetite, can be purchased for fifty cowrie shells (i^d.), twenty eggs for the same price, but these are not often cheap, as very frequently they are brought for sale when they will not hatch.

Of course our store room, furnished from England, is our grocer; the garden answers to greengrocer and

53

On the Borders of Pigmy Land

fruiterer, for it produces nearly everything ; crops can be had in constant succession if care is taken to sow systematicallv. We also have from our cows a constant supply of fresh butter, cream, and milk which is churned on the premises in a native gourd. Besides this we are our own bakers. Flour is grown in limited and fluctuating quantities in the country. This is ground up, mixed with carbonate of soda and buttermilk, baked in a native pot with fire above and under, and in less than an hour a very decent wholemeal loaf is ready for afternoon tea.

The only drawback is that most of these departments of industry have to be worked by one's self. It is rather curious the number of professions a European holds out here, simply because he must, there is no one else to do it. The natives have such exalted ideas of the powers of a white man, that they appeal to him in every difficulty.

The first week we had brought to us an umbrella to be re-covered, one watch with broken mainspring needing repair, a lamp to be soldered, all sorts and conditions of sick people wanting medicine, and one raving mad- man !

The servant question was one that had to be faced immediately on our arrival, so we decided to write up to the King and Namasole. In reply, four young girls were sent down who did nothing but weep in spite of our kindly assurances of friendliness. They had never seen white ladies before, and were literally scared at us. They all ran away during the first night ! So we had to keep on our road-boys until we had won the confidence of the women. We sometimes wondered if we should live to see that time ; for one day a cabbage was sent to table that had been cooked in about one pound of soda. The cook had seen the European put a pinch in the water, and judging the diminutive quantity was with an eye to economy, determined on giving us a liberal treat for once !

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Our best " cosy " was served up at another meal as a dish cover to the roast chicken !

It is not often, however, that they knowingly deviate from the model lesson given them; they sometimes err too faithfully on the other side by reproducing the European's mistakes and never improving on them. If you have once taught them a heavy pastry, your pies will always have that same unfortunate crust in spite of a more successful second lesson. They believe absolutely in reverting to original type. However, this is a one- sided view of the little black cooks. Imagine an English lad of twelve serving up a six-course dinner as these little fellows can, after some training ; and with such a kitchen range, three bricks or stones and some twigs, and a very limited storeroom. Give a Toro cook a leg of goat and he can turn out a most satisfying meal of varieties — goat soup, goat curry, goat stewed, goat boiled and roast ; and then if you want one more course, give him flour, eggs, milk, and a little butter, and he could send you in goat pie and goat pudding, or pancakes, boiled or baked batter, boiled or baked sponge pudding.

If you live on poor food in Toro, you must not blame the country or your cook, but yourself, that you did not arm against the future by occasional visits to your English kitchen. That is by far the best way of learning; cookery lectures and cookery books are not much use for a country like this ; they generally tell you to " take " something you have not got and cannot get, and on that seems to depend the success of the recipe. Often have I recalled the long, tiring hours spent in learning to knead bread, and then the patience of waiting for it to rise ; we should be eating tinned biscuits (like our predecessors) till this day if our bread depended on that method out here.

Vegetables form rather an important part in the daily diet ; in fact, one is inclined to be a vegetarian where

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On the Borders of Pigmy Land

vegetables are so plentiful and meat very tough and tasteless. On some occasions fifteen different kinds have been sent to table at a meal. They are all cooked in one large earthen pot, each vegetable being tied up in a large banana leaf with water — the leaf is water-proof and made soft and pliable by passing it through the fire.

The white ants and snakes show marked appreciation for the Europeans' houses. In spite of digging deep trenches round outside, the ants, which are supposed to travel only a few inches under the surface soil, manage to get at the poles and so gradually undermine the safety "tf the walls. They are the most indefatigable workers. In one night the floor of a room will be covered with little heaps of soil which they have carried up ; a mackintosh coat was half eaten away by these little pests that had discovered it on a peg behind the bedroom door. Sulphur, hot water, Keating, pepper, thrown down proved quite ineffectual in driving them off. The natives advised a European to leave the little ant-heaps for a few days until a crop of small mushrooms appeared on the ant-heaps, and that would satisfy the ants and off they would go to begin their work elsewhere. The experiment was tried, with the result that on the third day the floor was covered with tiny white fungi, and the ants really did disappear after that. I will not attempt to explain the reason scientifically.

More stringent measures than passive resistance were needed for the snakes that came and built under the sitting room floor. Their appearance was first discovered by one of them leaving his top coat behind him in one of the rooms.

One evening we were roused from our peaceful occupa- tions hearing two rifle reports and a regular stampede outside our house ; we rushed to the door, but were quickly told to shut it up, as a leopard was rushing about. Two shots had been fired, but missed it. A large search

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party was formed of excited, frightened natives with spears, rifles, and long torches, but all their endeavours were in vain. Three nights after that another and even larger leopard prowled round the houses, entered the donkey stables and dragged out a small baby donkey. In the morning an awful sight met our gaze on the path outside the stabling. The two hind legs had been com- pletely eaten and the body torn open ; the ground was covered with blood, and many claw marks were visible. The war drum was beaten, and, according to the law of the country, all the men turned out, from the chiefs to the poorest peasant, armed with spears and clubs. The excitement was intense, the King's Hill was thronged with dancing, rushing natives, singing war songs and making dashing onslaughts toward imaginary foes. They all danced and rushed in step, accomplishing the curious body dance in perfect order. They tracked the beast, and Mr. Fisher, who had led out the party, shot it as it gave one spring from its lair. The return home was a yell of victory, all assembling under the large tree on the top of the King's Hill to salute the Katikiro (Chief Minister), who sat in state to wait the arrival of the prey. Afterwards all the wounded were brought to the dispensary for surgical attention ; one arm was so severely cut with spears and torn by the leopard's claws that I had to stitch it up. Leopard's claws are very poisonous, and inflammation immediately sets in ; many cases prdve fatal on account of blood poisoning.

Just one word more before closing this. Life out here is not one of constant "roughing it." No girls in England could have been happier than we were, and there are heaps of things that make up for some left in Merrie England.

For instance, a punt down the Thames is not to be compared to a paddle in a dug-out canoe or a sail in the same by a square of calico hoisted. There is a delightful

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lake right away among the mountains, only five miles off, and no one ever enjoyed a lunch like the one we had in the little reed bungalow on the shore. Our first picnic there was unique. The lunch was provided by the Government officials, and really, I had never -imagined men were so domesticated. They superintended the culinary arrangements. The Administrator made a meat pie, the crust of which might have been improved ; another produced a sort of trifle ; while a third manu- factured scones ; and we tried not to notice the lack of baking powder. But we survived all three.

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CHAPTER VII Royal Life

KABAROLE, the capital of Toro, may be described as a city of hills. On the highest of these, com- manding a panoramic view of the country north, south, and east of Ruwenzori, stands the palace of King Daudi Kasagama. The Uganda Protectorate differs from Nigeria and the other west coast districts, in that it possesses no old-established cities and towns. The custom of the Kings of each of the four independent Kingdoms of the Protectorate formerly was to remove the capital as each succeeded to the throne. This involved a constant exodus of the people, who cleared out bodily in order to be close to their King. Scarcely any traces can be found of the previous capitals, as the houses were constructed merely of reeds, poles and thatch, which offer no resistance to the destroying hand of time ; occasion- ally a worn grinding-stone or a broken cooking-pot is met with among waving elephant grass that immediately assumed mastery of the ground on the removal of the people.

In 1891 Kasagama succeeded to the throne of Toro, which was then being plundered and ravaged by the Kabarega, the neighbouring and powerful King of Unyoro. For some years the whole district was dis- tressed by the merciless tyranny of the raiders, and the people were obliged to flee to the shelter of the moun- tains. Now peace and order reign, the security and authority of the King and his counsellors have been

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established by the British Government, and the country sown on all hands with the seed of Christianity which has effected a complete reformation in the lives and condition of the people.

The King's house is the only brick building at- present in the country. It is two-storied, with walls two and a half feet thick. The staircase is roughly constructed of bricks and runs outside. On the ground floor are three rooms. The centre one, into which the front door opens, is the reception room. The walls and ceiling are gaily hung with bright printed calico strips of varied design and colouring, stitched together. Over these are large, coloured Bible pictures illustrating the life of Christ. On the floor are spread grass mats and leopards' skins, which are the sign of royalty. An Indian rug is placed under a table and chair in one corner where His Majesty sits and receives his guests. The room is supplied with no other furniture. A waiting-room leads off from this, which is unfurnished, with the exception of a native divan made of reeds for important or sick attendants ; the others lounge about on the fine, soft grass strewn on the floor.

Kasagama's study is on the other side of the reception- room, and that is where he does most of his business and carries on his correspondence. Upon the rows of shelves fixed to the wall are to be seen small piles of documents and letters received from his chiefs in the out- lying districts, who are just learning to write. The boxes at the end of the room contain all his treasured presents received from the Government officials, missionaries and friends in England. If you call in any afternoon about five o'clock and are a friend of His Majesty you would perhaps be allowed into this sanctum, and there might find him working away at his typewriter or dictating to his typist, who can run his fingers very rapidly over the keyboard. Kasagama is now hard at

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work writing a history of the country. To prevent any unauthentic references to the past he has two old men, well versed in ancient lore, to refer to.

The Council Hall, in which Parliament assembles every Monday, is in an adjoining country, and this is a large reed structure decorated inside with coloured calicos like the reception room. The railed off partitions are intended for the King's chair, and for the Queen Mother or Sister, either of whom is expected to attend each week, The Ministers of State are arranged in straight rows down the building, and the people involved in the various cases brought up for trial come and kneel in the wide aisle which leads up to the King's seat.

I only attended once, as women are generally debarred the privilege, but the first thing that struck me was how very civilised is the House in Toro and much in advance of one's own native land, for we were not put up in a third gallery behind wire caging to merely catch a glimpse of the Speaker's head, but had seats given us next to the King ! However, there was a sad need of an Opposition or Nationalists' Bench, to add a little gusto and sensation to the proceedings. To make up for this at the conclusion of each case, the Royal band broke out into uproarious melodies, and the bandsmen accompanied their instru- ments with caricature Irish jigs.

A visit to the King must always include an inspection of his flower garden, of which he is very proud. It dates back to our arrival in Toro. As he used to drop in for afternoon tea, he would often find us armed with rake and spade, just ready to tackle the patch of weeds out- side our house. It was a matter of surprise to the natives when they heard that the white ladies were " cultivating," and a still greater wonder when they learned that they were not sowing food but flowers. Whatever was the use of flowers ? However, Kasagama thought it must be the correct thing, so one day ventured to beg a few flower

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seeds to start a garden for himself, and then very hesitatingly and half apologetically he asked what was the exact use of flowers, as he wanted to have an answer ready to give to questioners However, the beauty and fragrance of our English flowers have spoken to these people and awakened in their hearts a real admiration and love, so that outside many a Toro homestead now can be seen borders of carefully tended flowers ; and often prettily-arranged bouquets will be brought by them as greetings or offerings. At Easter time one result of this is seen in the Church. On the Saturday each one is asked to bring in the decorations and to help arrange them. The first time this was done the chancel was simply banked with bouquets, wreaths, and bunches of wild or cultivated flowers; palm leaves and papyrus grass, fixed to the columns of reeded poles down the church, made continued arches right along each aisle, while the open window sills were festooned with wild clematis. Most of this was done entirely by the natives.

Court life in Toro has a very attractive home side to it. One can scarcely wish for a more touching picture than when, the affairs of State being over for the day, Damali, the young Queen, comes into the Royal Palace with the little Princess Ruzi (Ruth). The Queen first bows before her husband-King, and the tiny child follows her mother's example, and in baby language greets His Majesty. Then Kasagama for a time lays aside his regal dignity and clasping the child in his arms fondles her and talks and romps like a big school-boy.

The old custom of the men and women feeding apart has disappeared in the King's household, and every evening Kasagama and Damali dine together. The menu never varies from one year's end to another. Each day the King has his own particular cut from the goat, namely, the chops and cutlets, and the Queen has a leg. They generally manage to finish their joints, besides the

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quantities of boiled plantains and various native vege- tables served up with the meat.

Kasagama has recently developed distinct sporting inclinations, and although it cannot be said that he has made his name, certain it is he has made his mark at them. Tennis was the first pastime he indulged in. One court was enough to allure anyone ! A space was thoroughly cleared of vegetation in the mission compound and beaten by foot in place of a roller ; two posts were firmly planted in the ground, a rope stretched across and strips of banana pith knotted on to it, hanging down like kippers put out to dry. The King was rather too power- ful with his racquets; scouts had to be posted like fielders at cricket. Seeing the ball coming he made a desperate plunge toward it and either missed it altogether or slogged it as if intended for Ruwenzori's snows. So he gave that up for football ; the dimensions of the ball I suppose appealed to him as being more adapted to his size. He is now a great player ; his grief is that he has never experienced the excitement of a scrimmage, as the men are afraid of hustling their King ; the only member of the team who apparently does not mind doing so is Blasiyo, the pigmy ! Another reason is that there is little chance of getting too close, as he is followed about the field by one attendant who holds an umbrella over his head and another man careers about with a chair, so that His Majesty can rest when the ball goes in an opposite direction of the field to where he happens to be.

In all Church work, Kasagama has been a leader and example to his people. Almost daily, at 8 a.m. as the people gather from all directions for Bible Classes or school teaching, a procession may be seen slowly issuing out from the reed enclosure that surrounds the royal palace. With a large company of retainers and an armed bodyguard at the front and rear, on his bay steed rides the King, a fine majestic figure, 28 years of age, and

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6ft. 3in. in height. The Katikiro and other important Chiefs, with their attendants, if they have not already started, come out from their houses on their side of the King's hill, and fall in behind His Majesty. They are bent on no Ministerial business, but if you we're to ask the King, he would say " to learn wisdom from God, for how can I rightly rule my country without having first received that."

When the drum beats for Sunday services, Kasagama is nearly always at his place in the church to join with his people in prayer and worship. Besides encouraging his young men and chiefs to offer themselves as mission- aries to the neighbouring villages and districts, he helps in every possible way to supply the necessary means in order that the native organisations shall be supported by themselves. When the large reed Church showed signs of old age, Daudi Kasagama, like his namesake David, King of Israel, set his heart to " build a house unto the name of the Lord."

Calling together his Christian Chiefs, he conferred with the Missionaries as to the quantities of material needed for a large Church, and when the approximate number of poles was given, he divided it up asking his Chiefs each to be responsible for a proportion.

The new " Temple " was not to be built of carefully- hewn stone, prepared bricks, or granite pillars, but of forest poles brought from long distances, many needing fifty men to carry them in ; bamboos from the forest-clad heights of snow-peaked Ruwenzori ; grass brought in by the women for thatching ; reeds fetched from the swamps by men and children, and red mud for the walls. Every morning the King came down to work with his people in the erection of the building, and when the framework was completed, helped to bring in the grass which was cut up and beaten with the mud to form a kind of solid brick wall.

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Royal Life

At 8.0 a.m. the Katikiro, Chiefs and others made their way down to the mud pits, into which there was thrown red earth, straw and water. About twenty men then would jump in, clasp arms in a circle, yell anative air and stamp the mud with their bare feet till the right con- sistency was reached. By that time they had become splashed and disfigured into fearsome representations of painted Red Indians. The mud was then put into baskets and shouldered by a body of carriers, who marched single file to the scene where the building operations were being carried on, while a drummer always went on before to give a spirit of militarism to the work.

With shirt sleeves rolled up, Kasagama and an army of mud-layers were ready to receive the mud and slap it into the walls with a whoop and occasional mutual con- gratulatory exclamation " Wehale " — " well done."

In this manner the Church, holding eight hundred people, was completed in six months free of debt and not having caused any expense to the Missionary Society !

When it is remembered that until the advent of Christianity six years previous, the King and Chiefs had never done one day's manual work, one can only regard this Church as a standing testimony to the reality of a religion that can call forth such a spontaneous demon- stration of the sincerity of its disciples.

One day while watching the unmistakable earnestness of the men at their toil, I turned to Kasagama and said: " King, your people are really enjoying their hard work." He replied : " Oh no, my people have not yet arrived at liking work, but they are rejoicing because this is God's house."

Pending the arrival of the Bishop, an informal dedica- tion service was arranged on the first Sunday of its completion. The Church was packed from end to end, the men on one side led by their King, the women on the other with the Queen Damali. A great stillness fell on

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that large congregation as King Daudi, who scarcely ever takes an active part in the services, rose and offered up a prayer of Consecration. In it he said : " O God, we know Thou dwellest not in temples made with hands, but this House has been built with our hearts' devotion ; therefore come down and take up Thy dwelling place, that sinners entering may be saved by Thy presence."

Kasagama in his time has played several "parts." Two days after the opening of the new Church, he was called upon to fill a position in a novel function for Toro, namely, the first European wedding. A great deal of excitement had prevailed for some time among the people, and whisperings of the unique event had filtered through to the villages, bringing a large number of people into the capital out of curiosity. It was a beautiful clear morning, and before sunrise the bride designate was needlessly reminded of the day by a loud shuffling and scurrying going on outside her calico window. The Katikiro's loud baritone was heard commanding a regi- ment of workmen, and by way of creating an excitement in the proceedings, he accompanied his orders by eloquent aerial cracks with his whip of hippo hide.

In order to have a share in the festive preparations they had come down to strew fresh cut grass all round the house, in the courtyard and along the road to the church. On the preceding days, the chiefs' wives, headed by the Queen, had been with their spades levelling the mud floor in the scarcely completed church and carpeting it with soft green grass. It was a welcome substitute of nature for the customary red felt drugget, and no one would have exchanged for canvas awning the archway of palm leaves and bushy papyrus grass heads that adorned the verandah and porch leading from the house.

All the Europeans in Toro were invited — they numbered five — and each had an allotted task. One performed

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the ceremony, another stood as best man, the organist pedalled away nobly at the portable baby organ and even persuaded it to produce the Wedding March creditably. There was one bridesmaid, and the fifth took the part of "guest."

At 9.0 a.m. the church drums beat, and King Kasagama, dressed in a cloud of white and elaborate silk draperies, came down to act " father " to the bride. His Majesty looked almost pale with the responsibility of his new position, and scarcely trusted himself to speak as he took his " child's " hand and led her from the house along the road lined with crowds of his excited people. The church presented a sea of black faces and white linen garments freshly washed for the occasion. Every- one was standing, for there was no room to sit down. A Lunyoro hymn was sung, and then the service proceeded in English till the close, when the faithful old native deacon Apolo offered pra}Ter in the language of the people.

The usual carriages and greys had to be dispensed with as the livery stables were a little too far off ! But a regulation reception took place and about seventy guests crowded into the very limited space of the European's sitting room. A real iced cake specially im- ported, was mounted on a stool draped with trails of wild clematis. Heaped up dishes of thick sandwiches, stodgy jam tarts, cakes and biscuits, that suggested a Sunday School treat for at least some hundreds of hungry English bairns, proved a scarcely adequate supply for the visitors, who started on the cake, then tucked in sandwiches, jam tarts and sandwiches again, and so on, in a hopeless mix up. The tea was served round time after time, till the guests, out of sheer inability, had reluctantly to refuse further supplies. One chief, with a sigh, regretfully eyeing a dish of cake, exclaimed : " Okwongera nukwo kufa " — " Any more would be death."

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As the guests departed, timidly limped forward old Mpisi, the first dispensary patient. He had been silently waiting his opportunity to slip in and give the bride his little wedding gift of five cowrie shells : their value was one-third of a farthing, but they were all he possessed.

The honeymoon was spent " on the Continent " — the dark continent of Africa, a trip of about 700 miles, across lake and over land, visiting a continual succession of mission stations. It included a visit to the Government Capital of Entebbe, where an official repetition of the marriage service had to be performed. Fancy being married twice within one month !

As the happy pair rode off on mules, actually the customary rice followed them. A mob of natives enjoyed this part immensely; but some of the women ran up, and tearing the bracelets and necklaces from their own wrists and necks, gave them to the bride with sympathetic tears !

Even the slipper .was not wanting; it was delivered to a native to throw at the couple as they turned off at cross-roads, but not quite seeing the point, and having a respectful regard for the shoe, he solemnly presented it as a parting greeting from the Europeans !

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CHAPTER VIII

The Women of Toro

ALTHOUGH undoubtedly belonging to one and the same parent stock, as a race the Batoro are in features superior to the Baganda, but physically inferior owing to the different conditions under which their lives have been lived. Women, both high and low, until within recent years, were practically the slaves of the Baganda households, and even now are expected to do the cultivating and cooking of the food. Before the sun has risen the Baganda women start on their digging in their banana plantations or potato fields. This has developed their muscles and at the same time had a healthy effect on the mind, for no one can handle nature without consciously or unconsciously being influenced by it for good.

The Batoro women, on the other hand, have been merely the chattels of the home. The upper classes scorned menial work and left it to their dependents and peasant folk. The middle class did no more than was absolutely essential, which generally resolved itself into cooking the one meal for the day. Their homes offered no occupation for them. The rude grass huts possessed no furnishing, for their wants were of the simplest. Bark cloth stripped off the wild fig tree and beaten out into a soft texture, or animals skins, provided them with clothing by day and covering at night. Their water vessels consisted of the hollowed out gourds that grow round their huts. One cooking pot sufficed for the household. A plaited

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grass mat took the place of mattress over a bed of reeds strung across a wooden framework and built in along the side of the hut. Grass covered the floor of every house — seldom changed and never aired. Soot and cobwebs hung in festoons round the inside, as there are no chimneys in the huts to carry away the smoke from the open fire in the centre of the floor.

In recent years the upper class women have discarded the barkcloth as apparel for white calico and coloured prints. When these garments show signs of wear the general custom is neither to wash nor change them for fear of hastening their end, but clean draperies are thrown over them when the wearer appears in public.

Some of the women can work very prettily with grass and fibre. Having discovered various vegetable dyes, they are able to make very attractive designs in basket- work by dyeing the grass different colours. The fibre they make into string and then form beautiful knotted bags in which they have their gourds. It was only by living some time among them that we discovered these hidden trophies of a spasmodic industry. Very few care about rousing themselves and devoting the time and care needed for this work ; the fault of the women is their inherent laziness ; the generality of them desire nothing so much as to sit still and do absolutely nothing. They are so fond of begging, begging, begging, but when you suggest their working, off they go and you never see them any more. Others will remain in their homes ill for days, and no one will have the energy to come down and ask for medicine. An industrial exhibition was suggested by two of our missionaries in 1903, and will be held every year, it is hoped. Most ingenious bee-hives and rat traps were brought in as exhibits, besides all sorts of grass and string work, painted bark cloths and gourds, and so on. The novelty of the exhibition caused great excitement among the people, and the schoolroom was packed to its

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utmost capacity with competitors and others. His Majesty, Daudi Kasagama, opened the proceedings with an earnest appeal to his people to make the show an even greater success next time by increasing the number of exhibits and raising the standard of proficiency.

Before the advent of Christianity there had been nothing to break the dull monotony of the women's existence. As they sat, day after day, huddled together in their dirty little grass homes, their conversation scarcely ever ventured out- side the well-beaten track of real or imaginary sickness, and the usual revolting topics that polygamy and heathenism suggest. Modesty, reserve, shame and sensitiveness were not known among them. One's whole nature recoils from the recollection of Africa's lost womanhood.

Girls are sometimes betrothed as infants but do not marry till they have reached the age of 14 or 15. The husband is judged rarely according to his merit — that receives small consideration — but chiefly according to his means. The girl's value is determined by her rank or physical appearance. Her parents or master fix her price at so many heads of cattle or goats. A peasant woman can be had as cheap as one goat ; should the husband be fortunate enough, in course of time, to possess a sheep or second goat, he will sometimes take it and his wife and exchange them for a stronger and better woman who will be able to do more work for him, or add more variety, quality or quantity to the day's menu. A peasant, living on the mission hill, married one of our women, and coming to the missionary in charge, fell down on his knees and eloquently praised him for his gift of potatoes, bananas, and beans. The European looked rather perplexed, and at last had to own up that the present had not come from him. " Oh yes, Master," answered the man, " it was you who gave me my wife."

When we arrived in Toro in 1900 there was quite a goodly number of baptised women, including Vikitoliya,

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the Queen Mother, Damali, the Queen, several of the Chiefs' wives and ladies of the royal households. Several of these had been taught to read before the arrival of the European missionary, by King Kasagama, who was baptised in 1896 during a prolonged visit to Uganda. On his return to Toro he had become a true missionary King, and gathering his women around him day after day in his courtyard he instructed them in the things he had been taught, while the men went to the two Baganda Evangelists in the little reed church.

When the European missionary arrived he found a large body of eager women as well as men, ready to be prepared for Baptism. Vikitoliya was one of the first whose heart responded to the new religion of love and holiness, as she listened to the earnest words of the King — her son. She is a woman of considerable influence and of decided intellectual ability. Her features present none of the negrotic characteristics, but on the contrary they are sharply defined and somewhat aquiline ; her expression, sweet and pleasing, betokens her kindness of heart and gentleness of disposition. She has built for herself an imposing two-storied mud house with a verandah and balcony all round. From the inside door- way hang reed and bead curtains which she made herself after seeing a Japanese model in a European's house.

She lives about two miles from the capital, and in order to encourage her people to learn to read and attend daily Bible classes she erected on her estate a church, which holds about 400 people. I rode over there one Sunday morning as I had been asked to stand as godmother to the first little son of the sister of the King. When I arrived the Church was crowded — it is a large cane building, with innumerable poles inside to support the walls and roof. It contains no stained glass windows, but the blue cloudless sky, tall, waving banana trees, and the graceful grasses of the Indian corn with its golden heads

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of grain, made a charming background to the aperture windows and helped the soul in its flight toward God perhaps more than such exquisitely elaborate windows as are seen at Notre Dame, which always struck me with their rich colouring. At the west end stood the font, a black native pot fixed to a wooden packing case which was draped in Turkey twill. Who could help being impressed as the words "Suffer the little children to come unto me "sounded out in the foreign tongue, and a sweet, wee thing, lying on white flannel worked with pink silk, was brought forward by its delighted royal grandmother. At the east end were spread the sacred memorials of our Redemption, speaking with such force of that one Sacrifice which uplifts and unites all nations under Heaven.

Vikitoliya possessed a peculiar love and reverence for our late Queen, after whom she was named. She never tired of listening to stories of the " great white Queen," and it was her ambition to strive to be to her people something of what Her late Majesty had been to her subjects. Never shall I forget her grief and that of all the leading women when the news of her death reached us. Immediately they came down to us to sympathize, and were at first quite silent in their grief, then with tears running down her cheeks, the dusky Queen subject said, "Your sorrow is our sorrow, we have lost our Mother, our friend." It is wonderful the influence that such a reign of purity and righteousness has had even on far off Africa, rousing the best chivalry and patriotism in the hearts of its people, and inspiring them to nobler ends.

Christianity is doing for Toro what it has done for every other country where it has effectually entered — it is raising its women from their depths of degradation and beautifying their lives, cleansing and refining their speech and habits. Clean, tidy homes are now seen, and care-

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fully cultivated land in place of the pestilential filth and gaunt elephant grass. Happy family life is springing up among the people, and everywhere there is a stir and pro- gressive vigour.

Upon the Christian women as well as the men has been laid the responsibility of doing something toward spreading the knowledge of Christ among the surround- ing heathen. At first a district visitors' band was organized to go two and two into the near villages when the daily classes in the church were over. They took their books, and either collected the villagers together or entered their houses and taught them their letters and syllables, after having read and spoken to them. I used frequently to go out with them to see what progress they were making ; a shrieking bodyguard would at once attach itself to me under pretence of frightening the wild animals off! Our arrival was always hailed with delight, and a dirty mat that acts as bed, couch, and footscraper was generally politely placed for me on which to be seated. The small children generally showed their appreciation of the white lady by opening their commodious mouths as wide as possible and screaming prodigiously. It took one a very long time to find them attractive, they so sadly needed a rub down with Pears' soap or Monkey Brand.

Sometimes I found 100 or 150 natives eagerly struggling with their reading sheets, all squeezed into an infinitesi- mally small hut. Somehow they always found room for the European, for they were very impatient to be questioned by her and passed on to a higher class. When the read- ing lesson was over we used to have a short service with them, and it was exceedingly impressive to listen some- times to the young Christian women speaking to them naturally of Christ's love. They never attempted an impossible address or delivered a thorough out-and-out sermon, but with touching simplicity told in their own

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language what was a living and real thing to them. It seemed impossible to believe that so wonderful a change could have taken place in these Batoro women in so short a time. When the visit was over, all the women, children, and some of the men used to tear off in front to the neighbouring huts to inform them that the European was passing, so on my homeward journey I was accom- panied by excited, chattering men and women and a crowd of naked little folk, many of them bringing small offerings of flowers, beans, or eggs to deposit at our door.

Although these folk can make plenty of noise they can make very little music. They have never been educated up to it. The royal band has been their only conservatoire of music, and their few songs were connected with drink or plunder, themes scarcely conducive to the highest poetry. But their singing is great. You should have heard a singing class I used to have on Saturday mornings. About twenty of the ladies used to turn up and exercise their vocal powers. They only knew a few of Sankey's most unmusical hymns, and to these they resigned them- selves with a fixed expression and still more fixed attitude, without making the slightest facial movement. They produced a curious grunt through their nasal organ, quite irrespective of time, key, or tune. I sacrificed myself to making the most hideous grimaces it is possible to form my features into, in order that they might imitate, and so bring a few muscles into action. But neither tonic sol-fa nor any other tonic would bring about results, so I gave up the class very hoarse from my efforts.

In August of each year is held in Toro a Teachers' Conference. All other work is suspended and the native teachers come in from all the villages and distant districts. In 1901 we decided to invite the women who were church members, so that a united Women's Confer- ence might be held for the deepening of spiritual life, and discussing methods of work.

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We had three separate meetings for women, at each of which a native and a European spoke. The subjects treated were : — ist Meeting — The work of teaching for Baptism and Communion — its methods and re- sponsibilities. 2nd Meeting — The work of visiting and teaching in the gardens — its methods and its importance. 3rd Meeting — The organization of women's work, and farewell word.

On the last day, at the close of a very solemn afternoon gathering, one woman rose from among the large number present, and in a trembling voice said, "My heart pains me for those around in darkness, and I want to go and teach them of Christ's love." A great stillness fell on the meeting, and Damali, the Queen, scarcely able to steady her voice, closed in prayer, thanking God for having called one from among them to be a missionary and ask- ing that others might hear the voice. On the third day nine more women had come to offer themselves as missionaries. One was Ana Kageye, the head woman of the Royal household, one of the leading women of the country. Before coming to us she had been to the King, and received his permission for her to leave him for God's service. She had, before her conversion, led a desperately wicked life, and, being old and so steeped in witchcraft, one almost supposed her to be beyond the power of reformation. She had first heard of Christ from Kasagama's lips, and although her eyes were then getting somewhat dim with age, she learned from the King to read the Bible for herself. From that time a complete change came over her whole life and appearance, so that her scarred face became quite attractive. Since then she had proved a most indefatigable teacher and helper in all Church work.

A class was at once arranged for instructing these can- didates morning and afternoon for six months in St. Matthew, St. John, Acts, the Pauline Epistles, and a

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sketch of Old Testament history. At the end of that period they were examined for one whole week. During that time their excitement and anxiety were strained to their highest pitch ; they refused to eat at mid-day for fear they might become incapable of hard thinking, and were found in their places at class nearly one hour before the appointed time. After the first week old Ana Kageye took pity on their troubled appearances, and insisted they should all go to her house after the morning class and she would give them a substantial meal. Out of twelve who were questioned two reached ninety-eight per cent, marks and the lowest did not fall below seventy-five per cent. After that they were brought before the Native Church Council and ten were assigned to stations. Two (one being Ana Kageye) were located as foreign missionaries to distant Ankole, two to a hill station four days' journey away on a southern ridge of Ruwenzori, and the remaining six villages two and three days away. This was a brave step for these Batoro women to take, after having led such indolent and sheltered lives, and in spite of the intense joy that filled their heads, they did not leave without tears in their eyes as they bade good-bye to all their friends for the first time. Surely they teach a lesson to many in favoured England who have not yet faced their personal responsibility to the unreached heathen.

All of these first women teachers did splendidly. After six months' work they returned for a few weeks, as no native worker is allowed to remain at his post without coming in for occasional rest and restrengthening. The deadly influences of heathenism might prove too strong for such young Christians if they were to live away from helpful surroundings. Eight of the ten again returned to their work, and the other two were married and after- wards went out as teachers with their husbands.

Ana Kageye at first found the women of Ankole eager to learn to read, but not so quick to believe the new

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religion she brought to them. One day a young Princess fell sick, and their own cures failing she was carried up to the European doctor temporarily stationed at the Government fort. When it was declared by him to be almost a hopeless case the natives gave up all idea of her recovery, saying that if the white man could not cure her nothing would.

Good, brave old Ana then came forward and told them again of the Living God who hears and answers prayer, and they answered together "If your God will heal her we will believe." The young dying Princess was there- upon carried to Ana's little grass house, and as night fell the fires died down in every hut but the one in which the sick girl lay, and all night long the faithful old servant of God, as she watched by the bedside, wrestled in prayer for the life before her. What a wonderful act of faith was witnessed that night in the little hut in Darkest Africa ! This woman so recently brought to know God even dared through faith to prove her God before these heathen. As the day dawned the women gathered round the hut expecting to mourn over the dead body, but the God of Life had come forth and revealed His power, the girl's unconsciousness had passed off and she had taken the first step to recovery. The result was that after Ana had been working there nine months she had instructed and prepared for baptism the first five women of Ankole.

Is it not worth leaving home and friends to search among the dust and mire of that dark Continent and find such gems, even if they be but few ? " They shall be mine, saith the Lord of Hosts, in that day when I make up my jewels."

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CHAPTER IX Child Life

CHILD life! How immediately our minds linger over happy scenes of mirth and innocent laughter, romping, rollicking games of mischief or of fun. Bright, happy childhood ! No cloud of care and trouble has arisen on life's horizon, and sin has not yet tainted the atmosphere of Heaven that still lingers round its off- spring.

But where can memory rest upon such a picture as that in darkest Africa ? Look upon a tree, the tender buds of which half fearfully peep through the bare branches just to catch a glimpse of the outer world, when a cold frost blast of winter strikes across the frail young life and withers it for ever. That is child life in Africa. Innocence and purity were withered just as they dared to step from infancy. Happy, careless mirth was crushed with the weight of the burdens laid upon the shoulders of childhood. Their mother's home, as has been described, was their earliest environment, their language was learned from her, and then lovelessness was the children's portion, as they were sent away as servants or slaves to neighbour- ing chiefs. Parents scorned the idea of bringing up their own children ; they affirmed that a child would never listen to its parent and would refuse to work, so they exchanged their children at the age of four or five years for others who would be as slaves to them. Even at this tender age they were taught to gather the sticks and twigs, and then sit by and feed the fire while the food

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was cooking, or they carried the gourds or pots on their little woolly pates down to the river to draw the daily supply of water. They were generally fearfully neglected and underfed ; their dislike to water was accounted for by the fact that they possessed no clothing and the dirt kept them warm. If anyone had been born with a leaning towards cleanliness his mother would have effectually crushed this by the cold water treatment administered during infantile blutions. It was the custom every morning between 4.0 and 5.0 a.m., when the cold night air still clung in damp mists to the land, to hold the babies naked out in the courtyards, throw cold water over them, and then leave them out to dry.

Their little insides were treated with no greater con- sideration. One morning a woman brought down to the dispensary a wee morsel of three weeks : it was a pitiful little object of mere skin and bone. The mother explained that it had either been poisoned out of spite, or it was possessed of an evil spirit. " See," said she, " I have done all I could to let out the poison or devil." Looking at its body I saw it was covered with a number of small, deep cuts, and the blood had been left to dry. Low moans and a tired cry came from the poor little helpless mite as the flies tortured its mutilated body. After questioning the mother the " evil spirit " took the form of bananas and mushrooms that she had been bringing the three weeks' infant up on! Feeding bottles were an unknown luxury, and as no equivalent had been invented, babies were compelled to lap from the hand, an art they never properly learned and thrived very poorly on. Some three dozen india rubber " comforters" were sent out to me, and these I managed to fix on empty ink bottles or medicine bottles, and so a new-fashioned "Allenbury" feeder was introduced. The demand far exceeded the supply, so they could only be lent out by the month. " Stephens' Ink " would have been immensely pleased

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could it have snapshotted the babies being solemnly fed in church with its bottles held to their mouths.

Certainly it was a case of the survival of the fittest with the Toro infants, and as the " fittest " were few and far between, mortality was very great among them.

The first two dolls that arrived in Toro met with a very mixed welcome ; the children howled and fled in terror, but their mothers showed a most profound admiration for them. At first they held the doll very gingerly and at a distance, as if in fear of being bewitched, but finding that nothing happened to either one or the other, and the doll still smiled at them like the Cheshire cat, they became great friends and begged that they might borrow it for a few days to play with.

Whether it was the large circulation that those two dolls got, or the gradually increasing confidence of the Toro children in the white ladies, the fact remains that in a few months all childish prejudice had disappeared, and often a little voice was heard asking for "a child that causes play." When this was known in England over 100 dolls were sent to me from two work- ing parties. I never saw such a wonderful doll show as they made. They were all displayed on our verandah, and the house was literally besieged with men, women, and children for some days.

A bride, beautifully dressed in white satin and kid shoes, who, even in her wedding attire, cried " Mama " and " Papa," was sent to little Princess Ruth, but the report reached me that King Kasagama had constituted himself guardian, and kept it locked up in his study for slack moments ! The Mother Queen wrote an imploring letter to me for a dainty little Parisienne who arrived with her travelling trunk ; and Apolo, our faithful native deacon — confirmed bachelor — asked me in secret if men ever played with dolls, and beamed with satisfaction as he most triumphantly carried one off, peacefully sleeping.

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The others were given out to the little girls who had been most regular at the school, and were noted for having come with clean faces and bodies.

When the boys saw that the dolls were only given to girls, some borrowed their sisters' garments to try and appear eligible ! I did not know till then they were versed in such cunning ! It was so pretty to watch the joy and even playfulness that those dolls brought into the lives of so many little ones who had scarcely known what this meant till then. Christianity has completely revolutionized child-life in Toro. No longer are the new-born babes given over to the Devil by causing their blood to flow as a dedicatory offering ; the teeth are not now extracted to propitiate the Evil One, and happy family circles are seen in place of slavery.

I am sure in no Sunday School in England is there brighter singing than among the Toro infants when about 200 of them, with very lusty lungs, open their rather prominent mouths and sing " There's a Friend for little children above the bright blue sky."

Certainly the girls and boys make very clever little domestics. I have sometimes wondered whether the problem of the over-taxed English market could not be solved by exporting some of these small people. I had a little maid named Keturah, who was 12 years of age, and she could almost manage the work of a housemaid and parlourmaid. She kept my room in perfect order, care- fully putting away anything left about, and cleaned it regularly every Saturday. On Mondays she carried off the soiled linen, washing, starching, and ironing it as well as I had been able to teach her ; and she could wait at table like a Gatti's waiter ! Was that not splendid for a little girl who had come to us without ever having seen an English bed, garment, knife, fork, or iron ?

Of course, one has occasionally to put up with small inconveniences. One day a pair of boots were sent out

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to be dried by the fire, with strict injunctions not to leave or scorch them. In a few minutes they were brought in with a big hole burnt out of the leather, and the sole shrivelled up beyond repair — and these were a last pair ! Pocket handkerchiefs frequently find their way into the boiled starch, a white muslin blouse sometimes loses its identity completely by a strong dose of the blue-bag ; if it is needed for a special occasion the quantity is increased ! A flannel nightgown was boiled for three hours on one occasion ; fortunately it was a very unattractive Jaeger, but even then it did not surrender its colour. That shade of flannel is like the Ethiopian's skin — I could never even get it to fade. Take my advice, and try white instead.

But, after all, these are mere details. They are faith- ful little people, and would never refuse to follow their master as he travels up and down the country, though they scarcely ever escape malaria when marching through fever districts, in spite of strong doses of quinine. Often concealing a high temperature from the European, they hurry on in front to see that his tent and a refreshing cup of tea are ready when he comes into camp. As we travelled down to Uganda, on our way home to England, our staff of six boys started out with us; one after another knocked over, and had to be carried back, till we were left with only two to do everything for us, and in spite of their being ill, they insisted on coming as far as Victoria Nyanza. As the big lake steamer weighed anchor and cut through the water, two little white caps were waving at the end of the pier until we disappeared from sight.

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CHAPTER X

Religion

CENTRAL Africa may be said to have no religion, if by that we understand belief in a God. It has produced no Buddha or Mahommed to make known to its people some revelation of a deity, neither has it possessed any ancient writings that a Confucius could bind together as a foundation to a nation's creed. In its belief we see the most pitiable product of a dark, ignorant, and degraded mind, that, left to itself, has worked out some antidote for that which is inherent in every man — an indefinable longing after the spiritual. Its faith bears in it the seeds of inevitable decay, for in its tenets can be found no trace of truth, purity, or holiness, which, varying however much they may in degree, hold together the great religious systems of the world. It might be described briefly as Devil-worship or the Propitiation of Evil Spirits ; it differs in its rites and rituals among the various tribes. In Uganda the practices of the people were more extreme, perhaps, but certainly less torturing than in the Western Provinces of the Protectorate, where superstition led to the most barbarous infliction of human suffering from the cradle to the grave. For every real or imaginary evil and sickness that fell upon the individual, family, or community, branding, cutting, and mutilation of the body took place ; while, without exception, all the front teeth in the lower jaw were extracted as soon as ever they appeared.

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These customs, practised for so many generations, have had a very deteriorating effect on the physical constitution of the people. The strength of the natives has been sapped, their minds degraded, and their energies crushed. They possess very small physical resources, and fall an easy prey to any sickness that visits their district.

A few years ago, before the teachers of Christianity reached their country, tiny devil temples, made of grass and twigs, stood in the courtyards of the houses, and in these were placed, from time to time, offerings of cowrie shells or food. One day there was brought to me at the dispensary a child who was said to be devil-possessed. The physic prescribed was so far successful that the grateful mother brought a little thank-offering. It con- sisted of ten cowrie shells tied round a small piece of papyrus stalk. When the child had fallen ill, the mother had tied one of these shells to the strip of grass and given it as a propitiatory offering to the devil ; as the sickness increased, each day another shell was added, until, find- ing her child become rather worse than better, she brought her down to the dispensary. And as the European had done what the devil refused to do, the woman took the shells away from him and gave them to the white lady !

Generally speaking, the people are in partial or total ignorance of their belief ; they have never been taught it, and practise the rituals from habit without realising their significance. The priests prescribe what form the offerings shall take and their claims are never questioned; besides this, they extort heavy fees each time they are consulted. They profess to divine the will of the evil spirit by means of charms made of sticks, hide, horns, and the entrails of fowls and goats. When Kasagama was brought from Budu by Sir Frederick Lugard to be re-installed in his kingdom of Toro, from which he had fled, as a young prince, from the raiding bands of Banyoro

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under King Kabarega, a white fowl was killed and examined. The priest declared the omen augured that success and peace should attend his reign. But Kasagama, being unacquainted with what they had done, nearly brought upon himself the worst misfortune by approaching near to the grave of the fowl. Had not his attendants just stopped him from walking over the grave a moral offence would have been perpetrated upon the body of the fowl and its spirit would have avenged the wrong !

By carefully clearing away the accumulated legends of centuries, one finds, however, faint suggestions of a purer belief, which reminds one of a saying by an Indian monarch, who lived in the 3rd century B.C., " The sap of all religions is alike."

There are a few Batoro whose memory recalls their primitive belief, which, despite the contortions which time and repetition have effected, bear a recognisable similarity to Old Testament revelations.

At the beginning of all history they say God and his brother Nkya were in the world and made all things. Nkya had three sons whom he brought to God to be named, and in order to do so He proved the heart of each man. When the sons were brought in at night, to each of the sons was given a pot full of milk and God ordered them to take care of it until the morning. At midnight the youngest dozed and some of his milk got spilled ; then he turned to his brothers and asked them to fill up his pot with a little from each of theirs, and this they did. After a short time the elder son knocked over his pot and all the milk was spilled out. Then he begged the others to give him of theirs, but they refused, saying, " And what shall we do? " When the night had passed God came and uncovered each of the milk pots. To the second son he said, "Where is your milk?" And he answered, " The youngest's milk was spilled and I filled

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up his pot." And to the eldest God said, "And yours? " He replied, " I slept and mine was all upset and I asked my brothers to give me of theirs but they refused." Then God cursed him and called him Kairu (a little servant), saying that he should become his brothers' servant. And God said to the youngest, " You shall be called Kakama (Little King), you shall rule all people, you shall be King, and your second brother shall live with you and be your minister."

After this God took counsel with his brother that they should leave the world and go to their home in heaven, for there was very great sin in the world, and God did not wish to kill man whom he had created. So God and Nyka left the world and Kakama was left to rule the people. The Banyoro trace all their Kings back to this great Monarch.

Their fifth King was named Kantu, who they say, brought punishment and death into the world. Like his predecessors, he disappeared suddenly, and is believed to have gone up to God to beg that disease and death might visit the people. God then spoke with Nkya, his brother, and said it was well people should die and come to life again after four days. But Nkya said, " Let them die absolutely." After this the little son of the reigning king became ill and died, and the King Isaza sent to God and said, " My son will not wake up." God said, " What is his sleep like ? " And he replied, " Since lying down to sleep he will not move and he does not breathe." Then God sent to Isaza and told him to dig a hole and bury the child. But the King did not understand what death was, and as he sat in his house he sought for his son and ordered for him to be brought. But his people told him that he would never again see his son ; hearing this the King lifted up his hands and as he stood over the grave he cursed all men for the death of his child. For this God plagued his people with sickness, but Isaza remained unsoftened, so God sent death to his second son,

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After this the King of Hell sent messages to the King Isaza, tempting him with gifts to make a covenant with him ; and after much hesitation Isaza yielded and set out with his companion the Moon to visit the King of Hell. When he had gone some distance the ground suddenly opened, and Isaza was cast down till he reached the gate of Hell, from whence he never returned. Whereupon the moon, grieving over the loss of his royal friend, went up into the sky and has ever remained there.

The method of these people for making a covenant was that of blood-brotherhood.

Each of the two parties took a coffee bean, dipped it in the blood from a small incision made in his body, then handed it to his companion to be eaten. It was a most sacred pledge of indissoluble union, a breach of which met with immediate death. Whoever the King chose to honour with blood brotherhood, was raised to the highest position, regardless of his birth or estate. This has often made clear to them the passage, "we who sometimes were far off are made nigh by the blood of Christ." It is said that when the first English official passed through the neighbouring country of Ankole, the King and people were in a state of great consternation, speculating as to the purport of his visit. The explanations of the Englishmen were not sufficient to allay their suspicions, but on his agreeing to make " blood brotherhood " with the King an under- standing was arrived at and the confidence of the people established.

Their ideas of an after life seem to have been of the very vaguest. Their belief that the soul continues to exist after death was evident in that they had a great fear of the spirits of the departed. A man on the death of his wife (or one of them) did not marry again till the body had decayed, for fear of offending the spirit of the dead. Frequently in the villages are to be seen long zig-zag paths leading

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to the huts that are supposed to baulk the spirits which only travel in straight lines.

Burial takes place immediately after death. The body is wrapped round in bark cloths and with it are buried quantities of white calico, bark cloths, and blankets, according to the wealth of the chief mourner. When the head of the household dies he is buried in the court- yard of his house, after which the hut is removed to another spot, so that the spirit of the deceased shall not trouble the surviving members of the family. When the King died the custom was for five women and four men of the chief families of the land to be taken by force and buried alive with the King, to complete the number ten, so that he should not be alone. A house was then erected over the grave, and inside the surrounding fence the Queen came and lived. Every day at daybreak she went with the keepers of the tomb to clean it down and sweep out the courtyard. They lived on the food and cows stolen from folks passing along on the roads. A man had to forfeit all right to anything claimed for the " Gasani " (the King's Tomb), and could look for no reparation.

If a man dies without expressing any wish as to the disposal of his belongings, his brothers, and not the wife and children, inherit them. Among the Bahuma tribe the wife is included in the personalty and is handed over as wife to the brother of the deceased. Our small milk boy, of about fourteen years of age, came to me one day with a petition for a rise in his wages, as he found it difficult to support his wife and children on his present earnings. He then went on to explain that his brother had died, leaving him to marry the rather elderly wife, who had two children. I felt the right thing was to sympathise with him, but quickly learned my mistake, for he was very well pleased with his legacy, which gave him a wife to cultivate and cook for him without the usual payment of goats and sheep.

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The Batoro have little or no fear of death, in fact some seem rather glad to create a iittle sensation among their friends by becoming for the time the chief object of interest ! On one occasion I was called to visit a dying man in the Namasole's village. With a little bag of medicine strapped on to my saddle, I rode out to see if anything could be done. An unusual stillness had fallen on everyone, for the sick man was none other than the Katikiro ot the place. Suddenly, as I stepped up to the doorway of the hut, there arose a wild shriek from inside ; this was taken up immediately by everyone around and the air was rent with wailings and loud, piercing screams. I knew at once my medicine would not be required, but, entering, tried to quiet the frenzied mourners. I drew out from my bag the Gospel of St. John, and read the words " I am the Resurrection and the Life." Immediately the tumult ceased, and every- one listened to the message of Life spoken in the presence of Death ; and as we all knelt in prayer one realised perhaps as never before how death hath been swallowed up in Victory. One of the greatest joys one can know is to wave the torch of Life and Immortality across the darkness of ages that has never known a hope beyond the grave.

The result of the people's belief is stamped unmistak- ably on almost everything in the country. With the lack of physical energy has died the desire to master their country. The rich, productive soil, with its abnormal generative properties, has been left uncared for and unkempt, till "thorns also and thistles," the insignia of a blighted world, cover a land that might have been a veritable Eden.

Tall, tangled weeds creep up to the very doorways of the houses, while most of the roads are merely narrow, beaten tracks. Whenever an attempt is made to tackle an appreciable task, a few days suffices to exhaust

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the labourer completely ; at the end of that time he may be seen in a state of total collapse, with a strip of rag bound tightly round the hand, the outward and visible sign of being hors de combat.

In Toro one realises at times the dead weight of life and its environment. The changes of the seasons — spring with the freshness of infancy and vitality of youth ; summer decked in the exquisite glory of a new life ; autumn and winter folding tired nature up in a long, deep sleep — are sadly missed where the trees are always green. The sympathy in nature is lacking ; flowers lose their subtle and delicate charm ; the bright, soft sward is there exchanged for the elephant grass with its saw-like blades. The birds have no song ; the voices of music and poetry have never been heard ; and as age after age has rolled by, no lip has breathed a prayer to its Creator. There are instances when heathenism seems to surround one with such blackness that the soul stands as if isolated in a foreign Land, breathing a new atmosphere in which there is lacking the spiritual ether of one's native land.

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CHAPTER XI

Language

THE language spoken in Toro is Lunyoro, and quite distinct from that used in Uganda ; but it is un- doubtedly the parent dialect and almost identical with that spoken in the Kingdoms of Unyoro and Ankole, besides being very generally understood by the tribes beyond Ruwenzori.

For the first three years, Missionary work in these districts was carried on in Luganda, as neither the European nor Baganda teachers had sufficient knowledge of Lunyoro, and there were no books or reading-sheets in the language. Luganda was understood by some of the upper class men and a few women, but it was scarcely ever spoken, and none of the peasants were acquainted with it. Until these people could have their religion and reading- books in their own tongue, it seemed as if vital Christianity must remain more or less outside their actual lives. So towards the end of 1899 Mr. Maddox went up to Toro with the intention of studying and reducing the language of the people to writing.

When we arrived in 1900 a little reading-sheet had been printed, and St. Matthew's Gospel was in hand. But there was no book or literature to help us, and as the natives did not understand one word of English it seemed a hopeless difficulty. Miss Pike, my companion, had studied Luganda for six months, so was able to speak with those who knew it, and through interpretation to those who did not. By this means she piloted us both through those first days when the house was thronged with

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people from morning till night, and they pelted us with kind remarks and every imaginable and unimaginable question. I never felt so absolutely stupid as when they addressed me with a torrent of eloquence, until the idea struck me of retaliating with a continuous flow of English. It pleased them immensely, but certainly did not check them.

The third day after our arrival, Mr. Maddox kindly gave us our first lesson in Lunyoro. He was trying to impress on us that the words were largely formed by prefixes and suffixes, so one had only to find the stem and it was all right. " Tinkakimuherayoga " was obviously, said he, from the verb " okuhu," to give ; find that, the meaning of the word was made plain : "I have never given it to him there " ! My mind was chaotic, and I wondered if it ever would be anything else.

After a few weeks our patient teacher had to go off on an itinerating trip, so we were left alone to flounder through the quagmires. I believe the best and quickest way of acquiring a new tongue is to summon up all the courage you possess and go in and out among the people until you adopt it much in the same way as an infant does its mother language. Undoubtedly it requires pluck. The first time I ventured forth with a remark, peals of laughter came from my audience, which almost quenched the one spark of courage left. Afterwards I learned this was a mark of their appreciation !

In the fifth month, and after a great deal of hard persuasion, I decided on attempting to take a daily Bible Class. As the 8.0 morning drum sounded and I made my way to the church, my nerve powers fell below zero, and I felt decidedly limp. The words " Who hath made man's mouth ; I will be with thy mouth " pulled me together a bit, and I hurried in to my class to find between twenty and thirty women waiting for their teacher. Talking for one whole hour was a terrible tax

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on my vocabulary, and must have been even a greater tax on the endurance of the class. I was quite done when they were in a questioning mood ; it would have been bad enough if there had been no foreign language to under- stand. The very first morning they asked me about Michael disputing with Satan over the body of Moses !

It is rather surprising to find that such simple people possess so advanced a form of etymology. The parts of speech and general construction in a broad sense resemble the other dialects of the Bantu class, but the verbs are very complex and more technically developed than its offsprings, Luganda and Swahili. All our English tenses are employed besides several others met with in Greek. Most of these effect a complete change in the relative form. Verbs practically dominate all the other parts of speech ; the nouns, with very few exceptions, are their parasites. A few straggling prefixes tacked on to the verb root are the only attempts the nouns make toward an individuality of their own. Adverbs and prepositions are rarely granted an independent existence. They add to the corpulence of the verb by being absorbed in it. The perfect harmony between nouns, adjectives, and verbs is a veritable man-trap, for a native will rarely understanda discord, however untutored he may be. Besides grammar and pronunciation, there are two other important things to study — the proverbs, and the mode of expressing ideas. The Batoro are not quite so versed in the metaphorical form of speech as the Baganda, who are capable of carry- ing on a lengthy conversation in the most mystical and involved proverbs, only quoting the first two or three words of each, and quite expecting you to imagine the rest. I trembled literally when this was first told me, for I had never been able to get beyond " never too late to mend " in English proverbs. But Lunyoro is really kinder in this respect. They do, however, exist in spasmodic forms. If you want to really win the love and

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confidence of the people you have to make a regular business of learning their catch expressions and idioms, and dropping completely the habit of translating English into Lunyoro, then they will confer on you their highest degree " Oli Mutoro," " you are a native of Toro."

The Batoro have what I believe is a unique custom among these tribes, that is, every mother gives a pet name to her child, and this clings to him always ; it is used when addressing as a token of love or respect by friends and dependents. Ana Kageye constituted herself my African " Mother," and straight away gave me the name " Adyeri " (pronounced Ar-de-air-y). This was very readily taken up by the people, as my name abso- lutely beat them. Only the King and one or two others got so near as " Hurudeki," and really it took some time to answer up to " Beki " " Deki " " Heki " " Bodeki " " Hedeki " and even " Paratata," which were all supposed to be " Hurditch." Really, to save the poor family name from such rough treatment I was not sorry to put it away entirely except in memory.

In less than five years a great deal has been accom- plished in translation, and with the exception of a few hymns, it has been entirely undertaken by the one missionary who has also been responsible for direct mission work. During that period the New Testament, the Prayer Book with Psalms, two Catechisms, a hymn book of nearly one hundred hymns, and a reading sheet for learners have been completed in the language of the people. Since Lunyoro was adopted in place of the neighbouring dialect of Luganda, the work has gone for- ward in leaps and bounds, and to it must be attributed largely the wide spread of Christianity among the peasants in the villages. It is not an uncommon thing to find a village that has given up devil-worship, not through the instrumentality of a European or native teacher, but simply through the people having learned

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to read the Bible for themselves from someone who had been instructed in the alphabet or syllables.

When Mr. Maddox was about to leave Toro for England, the King and chiefs came together and pre- sented to him a letter signed by a very large number of Christian men. In it they expressed their warm appre- ciation of all the work he had done for them in translating the books, and earnestly hoped he would soon return to them again. These books form the entire library of the Batoro. They are most insatiable readers, and as you pass along the roads any hour in the day you will hear a voice here and there issuing from the little grass huts reading in loud measured tones from the Bible. It is impossible to estimate the purifying and sanctifying influence this literature has had on the national and family life. The conquering martial strains of the " Onward Christian Soldiers " have displaced and driven out of the country the old songs of plunder and bloodshed. Instead of the little children learning demoralising heathen songs and dances they are being taught to sing such hymns as " I think when I read that sweet story of old." Right away among the creeks and crevices of the ancient Mountains of the Moon, on the very borders of the great primeval forests inhabited by the little pigmy tribe, you hear to-day the strains of these Christian hymns.

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CHAPTER XII

Festivities in Toro

I. CHRISTMAS.

CAN it be that this is the season that in one's mind is always associated with snow, Jack Frost, Santa Claus, shops and streets ablaze with gas jets, holly and mistletoe, people hurrying and jostling each other good naturedly, wrapped up in the warmest furs to keep out the crisp, frosty air, and wishing each and all the compliments of the season. Yes, it is really Yule- tide ! And yet the hills and dales are waving their ripening grain under the deep sapphire of a cloudless sky. The dry season is near its close, hills and mountains are scorched and parched, the banana groves and the tiger grass of the swamps which wind like a serpent's trail round the base of the hills, are the only bright and green tracks that have survived the conflict with the equatorial sun. On all sides are to be seen tiny patches of culti- vated land, even reaching up to the lofty peaks of Ruwenzori's range, where the people have sewn their grain (Euro), and this will soon be ready for the har- vesters.

In the garden round our bungalow mud house are gorgeous zinnias, balsams, mignonette, carnations, sweet peas, geraniums, nasturtiums, and two little rose buds. A few steps further will bring you round to the vegetable garden. One gardener being an Irishman, potatoes are very much in evidence, and of course cabbages. Besides these there are cauliflowers, green peas, beans,

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celery, only wanting the nip of frost to make it excellent, lettuces, beetroots, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, carrots, and turnips. And yet this is Christmastime ! It is little wonder that one has constantly to revert to the calendar to be assured of this.

And so we set to work to get the little gifts together that our kind friends from home sent us for our native friends — knives, pencils, bags, sashes, blotters, and so on. The wee tots from the school come down for their attend- ance prizes, and go away beaming with their new posses- sion of a pinafore. Then the oxen are killed, and on the day before Christmas all the sick folk come to the " missionary butcher " and hobble off rejoicing with their joint of beef wrapped up in a banana leaf. And, although Father Christmas has assumed a black face in Africa, he does not pass by the white man's door, and he leaves his gifts of a grass mat, animal's skin, beans, beads, or bracelets, the only things with which he can fill his Toro sack.

At 12.0 a.m. on Christmas Eve from the King's, the Queen Mother's, and the Mission Hills the drums are set beating, and from the English forts the guns are fired to proclaim to all the country that the Christian's day of rejoicing has dawned, for the Christ child — Immanuel — has come. Then on the midnight air is borne the strains of " O come all ye faithful " and " Hark the herald angels," sung by some of those who have been redeemed from the heart of Darkest Africa, and now step out from their little huts to join with us in praising God.

At 8 a.m. on Christmas morning the church drum is beaten, calling the people together, and by 9.0 the church is completely crowded out, many being obliged to sit outside. In the schoolroom over four hundred of the peasant folk and children have gathered, and in the dispensary the sick have come together for morning ser- vice.

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The church is beautifully decorated with palm leaves and flowers that have been brought in by the people, and the building echoes with voice as the audience unites, as one man, in the service.

On ^.fric's sunny shore, glad voices

Wake up the mom of Jubilee The negro, once a slave, rejoices ;

Who's freed by Christ, is doubly free.

After that we all go to our homes, the natives to make merry over their beef and bananas, and we to prepare as near an approach to an English Christmas dinner as is possible, and although there are no grocers' shops or fruiterers' to supply the usual details, and our cook for the twelve j^ears of his existence has been reared in African ignorance, still one can fare very excellently, for the guinea fowl and sausages are really turkey in all but name. The baron of beef, although far removed from the prize oxen of the English markets, is very good, and the home-made plum pudding, with its few suspicious native ingredients, brings up the menu to almost English standard.

Boxing Day is generally a grand field day, when sports are arranged on an extensive scale, including running, pick-a-back, hurdle, three-legged, and obstacle races. This latter involves scaling a bamboo scaffolding, crawling through packing cases with the ends kicked out, climbing a tree, and wriggling through a stack of reeds. Then there is a greasy pole placed in an oblique position, at the end of which is hung a leg of goat. Big and small, old and young attempt this, quite regardless of the undignified tumbles each experiences. Loud was the shout of applause on one occasion, when the Katikiro, who is of clumsy proportions, after many falls landep safely at the top and secured the joint. A banana peeling competition for the women comes next. The competitors,

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some twenty at a time, sit in a row with their knives and twenty green bananas on a leaf before them. When the whistle sounds they attack their task with great excite- ment. Some women, in place of knives, use sharpened pieces of wood. Those who finish first and peelthe best receive prizes of calico. Scrambles for cowrie shells generally bring the sports day to a close.

On more than one occasion Bishop Tucker has honoured Toro by dating his annual visit about Christmas time. This was the case during our first year in Toro. We had had a busy time previous to his arrival questioning and examining the hundred and fifty women candidates who were to be presented for confirmation, and when all this was completed we ran away to the crater Lake, eight miles distant, to snatch a few days' rest. But on the second day we were unexpectedly recalled, as one of our fellow missionaries had been taken very ill and was obliged to be carried into Mengo under the care of the other one. So for the first time we two girls were left quite alone, eight days away from the nearest European. But we were too occupied to realise it. The engineers, surveyors, and foremen (?) having suddenly left us in this manner, we were obliged to see through the completion of the jobs they had taken in hand in order to get things into shape before Christmas. Here at last we found a chance of putting to use our youthful study of Euclid. With a measuring line and sticks we felt distinctly pro- fessional as we tried to mark out a new road, but we found that if only the ground space had been long enough to test it our two straight lines would certainly have enclosed a space. So perhaps Euclid's axiom is only an absurdity after all !

Then the house where the Bishop was to be entertained needed repairs. The roof was in such a state that one evening, while we were tidying up inside, a big storm visited us and simply poured down through the reed

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Festivities in Toro

ceiling into the sitting-room. Fortunately there are no carpets in these parts, for the floor was covered with puddles in a very few minutes. But the water soon drained off into the holes the white ants had made; they must have suffered from rheumatism that night !

It was a difficult matter to find workmen just then, for most of the chiefs had gone off, each with some hundreds of men, to capture young elephants. Sir Harry Johnston had offered a certain sum for each young elephant brought in alive, as he was hoping to have them trained for transport use. A few days after the first party had set out, a loud report of distant yelling and screaming reached the school, where daily classes were going on. Nearly everyone ran out to discover the cause of the up- roar. A large crowd was seen approaching, beating drums, blowing pipes, dancing, and shouting. There seemed no apparent occasion for such a row till one spied a tiny, hapless baby elephant, with ropes round its body and four legs, limping along among its captors. It died, like all its followers. But for a few days just then Toro threatened to become a most undesirable menagerie, for, besides these elephants and various monkeys, the King had collected, and sent to the Commissioner, one of the largest, most repulsive, and horribly human-looking chimpanzees. The mode of capture had been rather unique. The tree in which it had taken up its position in the forest was isolated by the capturers cutting down all the surrounding ones for some distance. Then, placing a circle of men with spears to guard the boundary, they felled the only standing tree, and as it suddenly crashed down with its coveted and unsuspicious object, a net was thrown over the black monster, that was then hustled into a large cane cage standing in readiness.

One of our runaway Missionaries managed to get back to Toro just in time for the Bishop's arrival three days before Christmas. We went with the King's wife, his

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mother, his sister, and about 250 women, and waited for his arrival on the brow of a hill. All the men, headed by the King and Katikiro on horseback, had preceded us. When the Bishop came up, riding on his mule, he was literally besieged, and we could scarcely move on for the crowd. The days that followed were big days. Three hundred and sixty-four candidates came forward for con- firmation.

It was a truly wonderful sight to see the church with over 500 men and women assembled for Holy Communion. My mind travelled back in thought to six years ago, when outside the houses had stood the devil temples. Genera- tion after generation had passed, the Prince of Darkness exercising undisputed sway and holding the people in the most degraded and merciless allegiance. Now his power had been completely shattered, his temples cast down, and a great Invisible Temple was being builded together for a Habitation of God through the Spirit.

Together at the Communion rails knelt the King in his royal robes, and close by was one of his peasant subjects dressed in a small goat skin. There was old Apolo Mpisi, the dispensary patient, with a beaming and peaceful countenance — this was his first communion. Among others, hobbled up an old lady on crutches, who had had her leg amputated during a visit from Dr. Cook, of Mengo. The responsibility was a solemn one of feeling that we had done something toward preparing many of the women for this holy ordinance. When we shall stand together, all united before the Throne in Heaven, will it not be glorious to have had a share, however small, in leading forward some of the multitude from Africa !

As the powers of Heaven looked down upon Toro that day, surely they broke forth into a song of victory. Bless- ing, and glory, and wisdom, and thanksgiving, and honour, and power, and might be unto our God for ever and ever, Amen.

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Festivities in Toro

II. CORONATION CELEBRATIONS.

Although so far from things that stir and thrill the great heart of the British Empire, Toro must not be con- sidered behind in loyalty to that centre of its Govern- ment. Certainly it exercised its utmost ingenuity to follow close in the wake of the plans and excitement that occupied the mind of every English subject for commem- orating the great event of the Coronation of its King — Edward VII.

Our mails from England for months seemed to have no other subject to talk about. Our minds pictured it all — sombre London stripped of its usual calm sobriety, decorated in full war paint. We were seized with a violent fit of patriotism, and because we could not join in the London throng, or even go to the grand festivities that were prepared by the Government at Mengo, we determined to do our best for Toro.

First of all, some days before the event, invitations were sent out to the four other Europeans, and to the royal native court, for a coronation dinner. Ordering the donkey to be harnessed, someone was despatched to our village shop to purchase red, blue, and white calico, with which were made two long lines of streamers for decor- ating our station, and a large Union Jack to cover the Table in the Church. Some of the people came down to decorate the outside, while we decked the church inside with the royal and imperial colours. At 8.0 a.m. on Coro- nation Day over 1,000 people had gathered in and outside the church for a brief service. After prayer and Scripture, a Royal decree was read that had been sent out from England and translated, and this was followed by a brief address on the event of the day. Then we all rose and united in the good old National Anthem, that had been translated and type-written for the occasion.

That was the first half of the day's proceedings. The

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second half started at seven, when the dinner came off. The table was decked out with a table centre of red geraniums, white balsams, and cornflowers, the serviettes were folded as crowns, and the first course consisted of crown-shaped patties covered with the yoke of eggs, and studded with the white to represent crown jewels ! King Kasagama and Queen Damali, dressed in draperies of silk and white linen, arrived with the other native guests, who had hung about the outside courtyard so as to avoid being the first arrivals. It was marvellous how easily and quietly our native guests manipulated the European table equipments ; half concealed glances were cast in our direction every now and again. The serviettes rather puzzled them — were they to be left on the table or used as handkerchiefs ? When the plum pudding came in, all ablaze, with a little British flag stuck at the top, three hearty cheers greeted it, the King joining' in with boisterous glee.

On the table there were three dishes of strawberries, the first we had been able to produce in Toro, and we were keen on introducing them into the country generally. Pre- paring a plateful with sugar and cream, I respectfully begged his Majesty to try a real English luxury. He glanced timidly at them, and showed the usual disinclina- tion that is always evinced \\hen given a new English dish to sample. He assured me that he was so satisfied that anything more was impossible, but, passing the plate to the Katikiro, told him to try it. The poor man, look- ing the picture of misery, begged to be excused, so it fell to the lot of the unfortunate chief minister to submit himself to the task. With a pitifully resigned expression he took one strawberry on a spoon, then another, and another, till he called out " Excellent, excellent, the best of all." Forgetting his recent excuse, the King took the dish near at hand, and simply finished off the whole lot ! The day following requests came from one and another

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Festivities in Toro

for strawberry roots, and King Daudi superintended the Queen as she herself planted them in a plot outside the sitting-room window of his Majesty's new house.

After dinner the King was determined to do his part, and insisted on our all going up to his home. To our utter amazement we found our court outlined with hundreds of flaming torches, ten to twelve feet long ; the bearers were waiting to conduct us to the royal palace. The whole distance was lined with double files of torch- bearers, which made the country look like Earl's Court Exhibition on an exaggerated scale. Big bonfires were burning on the surrounding hills, the torches of guests coming from all directions looked like so many fireflies. On arriving at the Royal Court, we were met with a blaze of fire. Quickly falling into order, the people unanimously shouted a salute to his Majesty and his friends, as we made for the chairs all set out on leopard skins outside the two-storied mud palace. Then the performance began. The Royal band was then in full force. On striking up one of the most weird, discordant tunes, nearly the whole crowd of people broke into dancing, their fluttering, white linen garments flapping about them as wings. More and more excited they got, till they danced so high as to appear held up in mid-air. Then they gave way to the pipers, who performed on instruments made from crude pieces of reed. Singing accompanied this performance — such fantastic tunes, all praising the greatness of their King and exalting in the prowess of his people, with ringing cheers interspersed for England, its King, and King Kasagama. The evening closed in giving us all a longing that the great Edward VII. might have seen how one of his kingly subjects in the heart of Africa had commemorated that important day.

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CHAPTER XIII

Tramp I. To the Albert Edward Lake

THE year after our arrival in the country my com- panion and I were again on the tramp toward the Albert Edward Lake, combining an itinerating tour with a holiday. We started under not very pro- pitious circumstances. The wet season was not over, and promised to treat us rather shabbily, for the rain began drifting down just as we had put off from home. We had a small body of caravan porters numbering about fourteen in all, and an ordained native deacon, named Apolo Kivebulaya, as protector and overseer of the forces. He is just one of the best natives you could ever meet.

His experiences seem like a page out of apostolic history. He, with his friend Sedulaka, came from Uganda to Toro in 1896 as teachers. When a European was afterwards stationed there, he went further afield, even as far as Mboga, on the boundaries of the Pigmy Forest, and there he established a Mission Station. At first he met with a great deal of opposition from the chief Tabala, which might have been expected from the graphic account the late Sir Henry Stanley gives ot these uncontrollable people in his book " Darkest Africa." Apolo's house and few possessions were burnt by incendiarism, and for three weeks he remained hidden from his persecutors in a house of a woman, who had become a "reader"; but his zeal and faith never flagged even when he was cast into the chain gang, for there he commenced to

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To the Albert Edward Lake

speak to his guards, and taught them to read the Testa- ment, which he always carried about with him. Shortly after these things Tabala himself got converted to Christianity through the instrumentality of this very man, and, from being one of the fiercest opponents, he became, and has remained since, one of the most ardent supporters of the Christian Faith. Apolo is a well-known character throughout the country ; nothing succeeds in ruffling his quiet, contented nature, but with a chronic beam on his old dusky face, he goes along in his daily routine of instructing catechumens or confirmation candidates, officiating at burials and marriages, or visiting the outlying Mission Stations.

Certainly we could not have had a native escort so respected and beloved all round these parts than good old Apolo.

In order that we should find camp comfortably fixed up on the first day, we had despatched our belongings some time ahead. We were anxious to wait for the heat of the day to pass before actually starting off on our